100 Years of Solitude

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Bibliothek

The Giver


3.
+0
0 votes

Who Pooped in the Park? 5.11c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Andrew Wheatley, Brad Combs in 2009
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Bolted line just left of 100 Years of Solitude. Begin by either climbing the crack if it's dry or climbing the face left of the crack. Leave the comfort of large holds and move right onto the face to make the second clip. Continue up to a rest then bust through single pad edges up the short but pumpy headwall. Sucker your partner into hanging the draws.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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3.12 stars (17 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (18 votes)

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Submitted by: taristi
Date: Jun 14th, 2012

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Sep 7th, 2009

Comments

1
Andrew said on July 28th, 2009
Will add chains on the anchors as soon as I am back from vacation, or maybe brad will do it sooner. Hope you like big crimps, and be careful clipping the second.
2
Cleveland said on July 30th, 2009
Dude this thing is not 11a more like 10d :).
3
Andrew said on July 30th, 2009
So... you sent it cleveland? Good work, you probably right, lets change it to 10d.
4
Cleveland said on July 31st, 2009
No, no send, but since everything in Muir is soft using inductive logic one would assume that this thing is soft at 11a which would bring it to 10c/10d. I say down grade it before it gets ripped on by some db. BTW now that i know the beta for the bottom it will go down next time!
5
pawilkes said on August 3rd, 2009
I'm got on this yesterday and i would call it an 11 of some sort, maybe even 11b. I fell going for the finish holds b/c which were washed clean of chalk and dripping wet so I actually went for the wrong holds. Falling at the last bolt is not recommended b/c you'll probably hit the big tree behind the route, although it isn't too bad of a hit. My fall was probably further than some peoples will be as I out weigh my belayer by 50%. Decent route though, I'll have to try it again when its dry.
6
Andrew said on August 3rd, 2009
You won't hit the tree falling from any bolt, unless you jump really far backwards for some reason. We checked all the falls for tree potential and you would never hit unless doing something stupid.
7
Andrew said on August 3rd, 2009
Let me edit that last statement. You definitely look like you will hit the tree but in our experiences you don't. I really don't think you could hit unless doing something odd, but everyone should be aware of the tree and take it into consideration while climbing, strange things do happen occasionally.
8
Anonymous said on August 4th, 2009
In regards to routes in Muir Valley being soft... I have definately been on routes in MV that have been a bit soft for the grade, but that's not always the case. And I'd say that the routes at de Bib wall didn't seem soft to me at all. I think some of these 11's are some of the harder ones of their grade in the gorge. Nonetheless, these routes are spectacular.
9
pawilkes said on August 4th, 2009
I don't want to get into a pissing match w/ you Andrew but I think that hitting the tree will be a semi-common occurrence for falls at the last bolt. I didn't make in my initial post but I did hit the tree and I didn't jump out or even up that much, but I did go down a ways on the fall b/c my belayer got pulled off the ground. I don't think there is any reason to remove the tree or the routes though. I just wanted to make people aware.
10
Andrew said on August 4th, 2009
If you say you touched it, then I believe you. I am just surprised. Glad you liked it. I stand corrected.
11
pigsteak said on August 4th, 2009
pawilkes..falling going for the last holds is the same as a send, right? I say "book it"...
12
Anonymous said on August 5th, 2009
I can't wait to get on this. I thought Rick had asked Ron and Josh not to put anymore lines up at the Bib area, so this is a nice little surprise. How close is it to Unbearable? Like 3ft away??
13
pawilkes said on August 16th, 2009
I think this think will end up as an 11b, maybe 11c. Its not terribly long but it stays on you and the clipping the anchors is a bit tough. I added 3 quicklinks to the anchors to even them out better and not twist the rope up so bad.
14
bcombs said on August 17th, 2009
Added chains to the anchors. Ready to ride.
15
ray said on September 6th, 2009
Excellent route. Surprisingly pumpy.
16
Power2U said on October 6th, 2009
"Holly cow!" I am not sure how many times I said that on my way up this "11a". I finally gave up at the last bolt with a flash pump as I couldn't take the sustained crimping anymore. Not recomended as a warm up...yikes! Much easier with draws up 2nd go.
17
dbrayack said on November 16th, 2009
11c all day long - pretty hard to clip the chains too.
18
lena_chita said on November 16th, 2009
Yeah, I'll have to call this one sandbagged. It almost felt harder than All the Pretty Horses, and way harder than 100 Years of Solitude. Both of those were flashes, but this route took me 3 tries, and I felt very tenuous clipping the last bolt and the anchors. I haven't fallen on 5.11a in quite some time, so I needed to be reminded not to take it too casually, I guess. Nice route! As far as the tree, I have to agree with Andrew, I took a fall from the top, one move from the anchor-clipping crimps, and did not come anywhere near to hitting the tree. You do swing into the tree when cleaning tough...
19
said on April 4th, 2010
Fun, weird little route....i did fall a little bit above the last draw (not clipped) and smacked the tree pretty hard....gashed up my leg. And i did not push off or anything...just let go.......be careful.....cool route tho.
20
Danny said on March 22nd, 2011
I fell right at the last bolt on to the 2nd to last bolt and hit the tree very hard after about a 20 foot free fall. It's amazing that I didn't break any bones.
21
dustonian said on April 21st, 2016
Rusted, misplaced bolts up top and definite grim tree fall potential. Anchor needs longer chains. Decent climbing otherwise.
22
dlangdonj said on March 28th, 2019