End of the Innocence

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Augustus Gloop


49.
+0
0 votes

Sugar Rush 5.10a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jeff Neal, Russ Jackson in 2009
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This and the following two routes are right of Down the Rabbit Hole but it's best to walk back down to the old logging road and head back toward the fork near the top of the main trail. Look for a large boulder on your left with a trail bordering the left side. Head shortly uphill to meet up with these routes. This is the first on the left. Positive holds lead to a "made for side-pulling" move that leads you to briefly thinner terrain and a rail. Continue up to be rewarded with a few true slab moves. Go left, go right, go straight up, just go and don't forget to step up after clipping the chains for a good view behind you.
Moves: Slab
Descent: Chain anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.93 stars (56 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (53 votes)

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Comments

1
KQUINN said on August 27th, 2009
will be a cool route once it starts to get some traffic and clean up
2
Smiley said on August 31st, 2009
I helped by breaking off three or four of the bad foot holds between the ground and the second bolt today.
3
Jeff said on September 17th, 2009
You can't reach these 3 routes by walking right of Mad Hatters or Rabbit Hole. Instead, as the old logging road forks off to the left, you'll see a large boulder on your right with an obvious trail hugging the left side of the boulder. Head up this short trail to the rock. this route is the first route on the left. that is all.
4
SCIN said on September 17th, 2009
Thanks Jeff. Fixed it.
5
Josephine said on March 24th, 2010
very committing friction slab moves at the top!
6
Anonymous said on October 7th, 2011
seemed easy for 10a... and didn't seem any harder than either of the two 9s it is with. still a fun though.
7
ynp1 said on November 11th, 2011
I thought this route was very poorly bolted. Very run out on bad rock! It is covered in rock scars. I thought the climbing was fun though.
8
Jeff said on November 11th, 2011
Not sure what rock scars are, but how do you suggest it would be bolted better? It's 10a (9+) slab.
9
ynp1 said on November 14th, 2011
Jeff, A rock scar is what is left after the rock breaks, I am sure you have seen it before. About the bolting...
10
ynp1 said on November 15th, 2011
Also, what is your point about the grade? Do you think it is cool to bolt routes poorly if they are under 5.10? WOW! Finally, I did think the climb was good. Like I said in my first post, but it could have been better.
11
Jeff said on November 15th, 2011
Everyone's entitled to their opinion. At least you know now to never get on it again.
12
Spikeddem said on February 25th, 2013
I agree about the bolting. There are perfectly fine stances with your feet above bolts, yet to reach the next bolt you have to leave the stance, do a few delicate/balancy moves (for the grade), then hang&clip. The two routes to the right didn't seem to have this issue. Fun route though.
13
captcza said on November 11th, 2014
TR'd this fun slab route. Good mix of crimps, edges, and a ledge to take a little calf break.