The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Bibliothek

A Confederacy of Dunces


14.
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0 votes

Tea at the Palaz of Hoon 5.11b (Sport) **

First Ascent: Josh Thurston, Ron Bateman in 2009
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Shares the start with The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock then angles left. Furthest left route on the main Bib wall. Pull the entrance moves on Alfred Prufrock then move left to a large undercling near the second bolt.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
juggy (1) pumpy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.03 stars (30 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (26 votes)

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Submitted by: rdo'c
Date: Apr 3rd, 2010

Comments

1
goodguy said on September 3rd, 2009
Really cool line, with fun right to left movements that are unique from the rest of the lines on the main Bib wall. This route is actually right of "A Confederacy of Dunces"
2
tbwilsonky said on September 3rd, 2009
lots of really fun climbing on this. low crux to pumpy action between some big rests. 11b/c
3
pawilkes said on September 18th, 2009
decent climb. i felt like alot of stuff would break for the first 4 bolts but nothing major did. i recommend a TR cleaning
4
kek-san said on October 8th, 2009
Sharp, but nice movements and good exposure.
5
jlu said on May 14th, 2012
very fun line, heady as it forces you to get very exposed as you climb far out left. a few good shakes along the way with positive pockets on the way up. Overall, a hair easier than Portrait of the Artist. make sure to use the cold shut on the 4th bolt when cleaning