Ballnuts and Brassies or Busted Ankles

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Malice


41.
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Through The Looking Glass 5.11d (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Russ Jackson in 2009
Length: 75ft
Gear: Small gear (report bad anchors)

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This is the overhanging acute dihedral right of the sport lines. Climb through 35 feet of large blocks to reach a ledge. Take a deep breath then dive into relentless stemming and body smearing with difficult placements along the way.
Moves: Dihedral
Descent: Chain anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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4 stars (6 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11 (6 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Jul 14th, 2012

Submitted by: rjackson
Date: Sep 22nd, 2009

Comments

1
Wes said on October 6th, 2009
Looks cool, but for some reason, I keep reading the title as "Alice though the windshield glass" Guess that means I have been thinking about the arena/oil crack/between wall megaplex lately..
2
rjackson said on November 7th, 2009
It's all there. PM me if you want gear info or beta.
3
512OW said on October 24th, 2012
After spending most of the first go cleaning vines and giant spiders (which attacked when provoked) from the crack, it felt hard. Second go, without the extra battle, felt more like 11b. Cool chimneying, and a fun exposed final move out to the anchors.
4
caribe said on September 9th, 2017
I fought like hell. Placements are not difficult. Gear is good. Very nice route!