Better than Homemade

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Beer Trailer Crag

High Life


13.
+1
1 votes

Hang Over 5.12c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Dario Ventura in 2009
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Right of Better than Homemade. Start with a jug then bust through a tough start and gun for the ledge. Scum out of the ledge on small crimps and slap hard at chalk spots to reach the next bolt. A few more moves gets you a reward ledge and easier climbing to the chains.
Moves: Bouldery
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Beer Trailer
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.58 stars (24 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12c (17 votes)

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Comments

1
SCIN said on November 2nd, 2009
Bad ass long pulls pumping sustained crimping power.
2
Power2U said on November 23rd, 2009
Great movement! Don't let the hard move get you, it's not that bad with a little trickery.
3
dustonian said on April 2nd, 2012
very good route...right kneepad or long pants helpful
4
One-Fall said on April 18th, 2012
Hasn't this route name been used before? Gray's Wall trad route?
5
dustonian said on April 18th, 2012
Yeah but no one does the other one, and this one is way classic. Perfectly bolted, props D!
6
Cleveland said on November 16th, 2012
Jimmy, is blue your favorite color or were you just headed to a UK game after the send?
7
Cromper said on April 5th, 2013
One of the best 12c's at the Red. Watch your climber headed to the fourth bolt kinda spicy if you got a big ol sporto loop out. Must do at the crag.
8
Willy said on March 4th, 2014
PM me if the draws on this route are yours.
9
shadow.ayala said on March 5th, 2014
why are you taking down draws that aren't yours?
10
Willy said on March 5th, 2014
I haven't taken them down, I want to swap a couple of them out though for a bit because the dog bones are looking sketchy. If they are yours, PM me and I can stash somewhere, or get them back to you.
11
climb2core said on March 5th, 2014
ha ha... It's a bonus if someone is kind enough to try to find the original owner when it comes to pulling abandoned mank on a route they are climbing.
12
shadow.ayala said on March 7th, 2014
not mine.
13
zdordai said on March 12th, 2014
With trickery I didnt even feel like the knee move was the crux...there was a long move with the right hand to a good incut that shut me down a few times yesterday. Loved it. I thought this route was 5 full stars and I haven't even sent it yet...
14
Willy said on April 7th, 2014
Stellar movement on gorgeous rock! A double draw on the third bolt can be helpful. The moves coming out of the ledge without using the kneebar (it always felt awkward to me) aren't too hard and really cool. Coming off of the brass knuckles triple mono crimp thingy and slapping the jug was the move that repeatedly spit me off. Fun crimping and side pulling up the colorful groove after that. Knarly route!
15
Raiden said on January 31st, 2016
Truly incredible. Holy shit.