This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Ballnuts and Brassies or Busted Ankles

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One Side Makes You Taller 5.11a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Russ Jackson in 2009
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begin 10 feet right of Stalker in a short crack. Climb a short section of finger crack then exit up on large plates and knobs trending left to a decent rest. Step off the rest and crimp a little harder on smaller edges to reach the chains.
Moves: Crimps
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private

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Quality Consensus

3.21 stars (56 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (52 votes)

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Sorry, no pictures to be had. {want to add a photo?}


Jeff said on October 19th, 2009
Nice line Russ. Save some gas for the anchor clips!
rjackson said on October 19th, 2009
Thanks to Kipp and Jeff, for input and patience.
krampus said on October 26th, 2009
really cool rout, a lot of the crimps may have some smoothing out to do, but it will clean up nicely
pigsteak said on October 27th, 2009
great addition to the wall.
pawilkes said on October 29th, 2009
nice route. I did the straight up start instead of the crack but bouldered the crack later, much better. you can hang most of the draws on Stalker when being lowered off this.
der uber said on September 5th, 2010
Climbs well. Good movement.
Smiley said on September 7th, 2010
Chains are too low. Some people can still reach them.
Dman said on September 7th, 2010
Who shaved there dog at the base got hair all in my rope
lena_chita said on May 7th, 2012
I really liked the route, except for the anchor placement. I wish the chains were either shorter/higher up, or maybe a foot or so to the right. I had to climb into the scoop to hang the draw on the anchors, but then the draw was hanging behind my back and was very uncomfortable to clip.
tpowell said on June 25th, 2012
I fell once going for the chains. If you're feeling it in your forearms take a few minutes to rest on the last bolt because clipping the anchors is incredibly difficult if you're a bit on the shorter side.
Anonymous said on November 26th, 2012
Sorry but you got the anchors wrong on this one. Really sweet climbing though up to that point.
Chiyram said on May 28th, 2013
Jugs for the start and some tricky movements to the anchors.Good route with potential to be awesome, but those anchors don't make any sense.
climb2core said on May 17th, 2014
I fifth the poor anchor placement. It takes a decent line and leaves a bad taste in your mouth. Probably need to extend the chains for now until a retro bolt can be done, if the developer is willing to move the anchors.
pigsteak said on May 19th, 2014
yet not a single climber has went back and lenghtened the chain for a quick fix....hmmmmmm.
rjackson said on May 19th, 2014
This is the first sport route I bolted, and I did so with the tutelage and supervision of Kipp Trummel and Jeff Neal, both experienced developers. Every bolt placement was scrutinized, and especially the anchors. They are spicy to clip, but they are in solid rock, allow your rope to run clean, and are consistent with the grade of the climb. If someone wishes to add chain, feel free. If someone wants to brave the brambles, drop in from the top, can find a better position in better rock that allows your rope to run better and maintains the grade, then they have my permission to move them. I have no plans to reposition them.
dustonian said on May 19th, 2014
Anchor is fine IMO but there ie another bolt's worth of God climbing above. Fun route regardless!
dustonian said on May 19th, 2014
Haha... Good's own stone. Damn autocorrect even capitalized it lol
climb2core said on May 19th, 2014
It made for an awkward behind the neck clip, but isn't unsafe or anything. Not really a priority to go fix as there are routes that could use the chain and quick links much more than this. Anyways, thanks for the line
Anonymous said on February 28th, 2015
I agree that there's no need to reposition them; just chisel in a good undercling and call it good.
Anonymous said on August 8th, 2016
Two cooperheads at the base of the climb in the tree stump as of 8/7/16.
moloch415 said on April 25th, 2018
I'll add my voice to the chorus: OK route, anchors make no sense
Anonymous said on April 25th, 2018
Anchors are in the best/only place they can be. Any higher and it wouldn’t be close to 5.11. If in your face, it would be horrendous on your rope.
Tunica Intima said on October 18th, 2018
Route is ok, nothing remarkable. But will agree about the clipping stance. Anchors are probably where they need to be, but some extra chain would help eliminate an extremely awkward clipping stance.
Anonymous said on October 18th, 2018
For the love of god can someone please either put some chain on this route or chop it to stop these retarded comments???
climb2core said on October 18th, 2018
6 years of complaints on anchor placements that just need chain to fix it.... lol
Anonymous said on October 19th, 2018
We're actually not saying retarded anymore.