Imagine There's No Heaven

This route is located in the Southern Region at Shady Grove

Shaved Squirrel


12.
+1
1 votes

Taste the Rainbow 5.13a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Bentley Brackett in 2009
Length: 100ft
Bolts: 14 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk right from the main Shady Grove wall to locate this extremely overhanging and long line in the next amphitheater. If Pile Driver leaves a bad taste in your mouth just taste the rainbow and you'll feel much better. It is recommended to stick clip the second bolt and leave the first bolt unclipped to lessen the rope drag.
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
long (1) classic (1) steep (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.45 stars (11 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13a (8 votes)

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Comments

1
ray said on November 16th, 2009
Cool new addition Bentley! A long adventurous route with a freakin sweet last 5-6 bolts. I was out of breath when I finished this rig!
2
heavyc said on November 17th, 2009
deserves another star and after it cleans up a bit I think it will be a 5 star RRG Classic, thanks for putting it up Bentley
3
mike_anderson said on November 18th, 2009
Good job Bentley!
4
Anonymous said on November 23rd, 2009
Fun route, lots of varied climbing and angles. Be careful lowering with a 60m.
5
Andrew said on November 29th, 2009
great route
6
heavyc said on March 10th, 2010
doesn't change the grade but maybe slightly harder after I ripped off two holds near the top and half of a hold in the middle, my favorite route in the Red!
7
Artsay said on September 29th, 2011
Many draws on this are worn and dangerous. One draw's quick link (the draw at the roof after the first rest) is completely open and bent so it can't be closed. If someone with skills can go up there and remove the fixed gear, I'll buy you a pizza and six pack. I also have a couple of steel perma draws to donate to certain placements on the route.
8
pigsteak said on September 30th, 2011
your hubby now has the skillz;)
9
512OW said on October 4th, 2012
The bottom 3/4 was pretty pasty a day after raining, but the headwall was totally dry. Judging by the nearly completely rust covered bolts in the bottom 3/4, it probably stays wet alot. Fun headwall, fun wandering route.
10
climb2core said on April 10th, 2013
Sketch quick links, dog bones and corroding bolts. 7th bolt had 2 dog bones attached to anchor with 2 quick links. Lower dog bone was severely abraded on back side from rubbing against rock. I moved the draw hanging from this mess to the bolt, but that dog bone will wear too. Gonna try to get this route cleaned up in next couple of weeks. If you had gear on it send me a pm.
11
climb2core said on April 24th, 2013
Pulled all the draws on this 4/23/13. Put up steel Climbtech's on bolts 2,4,7,10, and the entire top head wall (12-16). You can unclip (and remove if it is your last burn) bolts 8,9, and 11 to reduce rope drag. I plan on adding a permadraws to bolts 3,5,6 in the next couple of weeks. With this set up, the only draw you will have to clean when you are done is the first bolt. If you had draws on this route and want anything back, send me a pm. A few were in decent condition, many were awful skeery. If you want to leave any on the lower headwall, I will pull them and leave them at the chains when I add the additional PD's, or send me a pm if you want me to hang on to them. Thanks to Dustin, Michelle, Climbtech, and anyone that donated to Yank the Mank to help make this happen.
12
climb2core said on April 29th, 2013
It now has PDs 2-7, bring a draw for 8, double draw for 9, pd on 10, and bring a triple draw or sling for 11, pds 12-16. To refuce rope drag unclip draws 6,8. I still need to extend draws 3, 13 some more. It is now easy to clean bolts 8,9, and 11 on lead. Please back rope to clean your draw off the first bolt. Also, bolt 2 is pretty corroded and should get replaced with SS some time this spring. Just be attentive in belay between bolts 2-3.
13
Dmack said on April 29th, 2013
The old draws were from an out of town Petzl athlete that came thru during roctoberfest of last year..Thanks for all your work on this thing Ian, cant wait to check it out!!
14
climb2core said on April 29th, 2013
Thanks Dru! I just noticed that someone offered pizza and a 6 pack if they cleaned this thing up... hmmm, how to collect? ;)
15
pumpout2004 said on March 30th, 2015
Adventurous!
16
Anonymous said on January 26th, 2017
https://vimeo.com/149818735
17
Anonymous said on March 28th, 2018
I left a knee pad near the climb. If anyone finds it, email me at [email protected] I will compensate you for it! Thank you!