Through The Looking Glass

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Hookah


42.
+2
2 votes

Malice 5.12c (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Kipp Trummel in 2009
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Right of the previous dihedral is a concave, gold and black streaked wall with two bolted line. This is the left line and is a must do. Climb up a short, easy slab section to reach the overhang. Pop over to a large reinforced jug feature which may possibly be crowbarred off in the future. Reach hard for slopers, then leave the safety of the jugs for some of the best moves and holds the Red has to offer. While recovering after the overhang switch gears and make a difficult move to gain the vertical wall then relax to the chains.
Moves: Bouldery
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
Steepness:
stout (2) bouldery (1) slopey (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.68 stars (25 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12c (29 votes)

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Comments

1
Yasmeen said on November 23rd, 2009
Congrats, Kipp! Also, I see you've changed your rating technique - instead of giving it a 12c officially and voting it a 12b, you gave it a 5.12 and refrained from voting. Sack up and spew some numbers, man!
2
pigsteak said on November 23rd, 2009
thanks yas....I want to think it is harder than 12b, but my fitenss isn't that of a hardman or a 20 something...so I'd prefer for it to get sent by a few folks first, and find a concensus.
3
One-Fall said on November 24th, 2009
kipp walks 12b, so I imagine it will be rated harder. Way to represent for us old people!
4
ray said on November 24th, 2009
I took a burn on it and it felt about 12d. Could be some trickery hidden in there though. Not enough to bring it to a 12b though. Regardless the line is freakin wicked.
5
pigsteak said on November 24th, 2009
lol...walks 12b...way to stoke the ego to get me to belay you...lol Ray is correct...there might be some knee bars on this thing to bring it down, but I ain't got that sort of style to try it....
6
ray said on November 30th, 2009
Set the grade at 12c after getting on it again. There's some trickery heel hooks that make the 5th clip easier but Kipp just can't seem to get his foot up in his nuts. I would hate to clip that thing without the heel hook man. Nice work Kipp. One of the best 12s in the Red.
7
pigsteak said on November 30th, 2009
since Ray sent in two goes, I'd say 12c is fair.....
8
schwagpad said on March 22nd, 2010
What's the deal with the big block with x's on it and some epoxy behind. Inviting calamity to clip and rest from it?
9
kafish2 said on April 4th, 2010
The grade feels right on to me. This is a really amazing route, I highly recommend that people get on this thing.
10
pigsteak said on April 8th, 2010
I went back and forth about pulling that block off....it wasn't loose wiht just a hammer, so it would've taken more muscle. but it also didn't feel right leaving it to kill a bleayer, so I opted for the double X and the left over epoxy from th glue ins.....if someone decise to trundle it, it won't hurt my feelings or change the grade.
11
schwagpad said on April 8th, 2010
I moved past the block without touching it, but the moves seemed stiff, especially considering the alternative was a massive jug. Just to clarify, have other people been using the block or avoiding it?
12
pigsteak said on April 29th, 2010
I used it on the FA, and I weigh 190.
13
Artsay said on April 29th, 2010
Amazing line and some of the best climbing I've ever experienced. The block keeps this line from being 5 stars. Afraid the block would pull off, taking my rope (and me!) with it, I clipped the bolt on Hookah with an extended draw and unclipped the first two draws of Malice.
14
ACD said on October 30th, 2010
A great route! Flashed, 12c seems good, feels unique.
15
JR said on November 18th, 2010
Great route Pigsteak!!! Thanks for including the top part.
16
aburgoon said on November 19th, 2010
Yeah, there's no figure 4-ing around that bit, eh?
17
Cromper said on November 24th, 2010
Awesome route, can't wait to send this next spring! That 5th clip is HARD. Thanks for putting up this mega classic pigsteak!
18
Green3 said on November 30th, 2010
For me personally, this thing is harder than Tuskan Raider, Phantasia, and Stunning the Hog. All climbed on the same trip, with this thing taking twice as many goes and counting. Laughable to call this 12c. To each his own though, call it whatever you like, still a 5 star route. I also think that having the existing grade lined up so that all you need to click is the vote button is a bad setup. Regardless of what you think a route is, it's easy to just click vote without thinking about it. Some people probably just click it, because it's there and it's fun to click things. You should have to pick the grade yourself. My two cents. Have a nice day...
19
Alex3000 said on December 2nd, 2010
Your suggested upgrade is laughable, Green3. 12c all day. I voted cause I love to click things!
20
Green3 said on December 2nd, 2010
Alex, alex... you live to antagonize me. Why don't I wander on over to Mona Lisa Overdrive and add to the comments, "Don't leave 3 'top-roping directional' draws while TR'ing directly through the anchors overnight or else they will get taken. That sounds like good advice. P.S. I have you on tape calling that thing 12D.
21
Andrew said on December 2nd, 2010
alex got burned
22
SCIN said on December 2nd, 2010
Easier than Stunning the Hog by a letter grade for sure.
23
JR said on December 2nd, 2010
Waaay harder than Wild Gift. Slightly easier than Stunning the Hog.....
24
pigsteak said on December 2nd, 2010
nick, i agree that it is easier than stunning. i have done nothing harder than stunning at the red, so they both are at my limit. that slab crux is awesome, isn't it....12c is right on for this one.
25
der uber said on April 2nd, 2012
Stout 12c. Pretty great after the 5.4 approach.
26
Jesse Koerner said on May 8th, 2012
One of the best for the grade in the red. Another Kipp Trummel gem.
27
Anonymous said on May 31st, 2012
2 gallons of glue later- walla, 5 star not but still fun climbing- ditch the block at the start, throw the glue in the trash and man up with a prybar, now can you say "ticking time bomb", hope your belayer can run fast
28
pigsteak said on June 1st, 2012
"anon" you have my 100% permission to take a prybar up there and get rid of that block...I swear to gawd I went back and forth for days on what to do about that block.....serioulsy, please pry it off...it only has maybe 4 oz. of glue on it, (not 2 gallons), so it should be easy to do;)
29
Anonymous said on June 1st, 2012
pigsteak- thanks for the go no go on the block, and i just like giving bolters shit about the glue, i never sweat popping blocks and flakes off- it's dead rock and is usually a potential hazard to a future climber. I have never removed anything from a route that made a line unable to climb-it might make it harder in turn means you must get stronger. You should never toil back and forth on an issue like this- go with your gut next time i'm out that way, that block and i have a date- I'm to lazy to sign in
30
climb2core said on June 1st, 2012
Pigsteak is just trying to up the spice factor in his weenie sport bolted climbs. He aspires to somehow achieve an R/X rating in his lines so he can feel like a bamf.
31
dustonian said on June 1st, 2012
haha trundling lessons from Troy. If it was 2-part epoxy you're gonna need a hammer and chisel at this point.
32
Anonymous said on June 2nd, 2012
nice call dustin- shit my cover is blown, the gig is up- i may only be a 12+ climber but i trundle at a super solid 14+, and yes, it is a sport too. I just feel that glue and death blocks shouldn't be part of a route- thats all, but thanks again pigsteak for letting me look at removing it, the route would flow better-trust me
33
Anonymous said on June 2nd, 2012
damn it dustin- you spoiled my everything, it had to be the Facebook that gave it away. Note to self- cover tracks
34
pigsteak said on June 4th, 2012
it was the leftover hilti glue form the first few glueins on the route.....troy is right...if I need to think more than a few seconds it should have been trundled...let's hope i didnt make more of a mess by trying to preserve the jug.
35
Jeff said on June 4th, 2012
Darned if you do, darned if you don't. Don't fret Kipp. Nice job, great line, great send, move on!
36
Anonymous said on June 4th, 2012
hey Kipp, even with the block- you put up a really enjoyable route and i want to say thanks for all the hard work and super fun lines that you have givin back to the climbers, it takes alot to put these up do all the work to open a line or an area- i(we) appreciate the work man t.
37
512OW said on October 24th, 2012
12c with no trickery. I found a kneebar or two on the go, but didn't find the need for trickery while clipping, unless dropknees are now known as trickery.. There is a good hold just right of the "hard" clip, and a jug at every other clip. Really fun climbing. Nice route Kipp, and I'm glad the top is included.
38
Artsay said on November 4th, 2012
Like most routes, when this line was first developed it climbed very differently than it does now but Malice was a special line to "figure out". Because of the interesting features (and no chalked holds) it also climbed very differently for each person which is why the grade was so debated. Initially folks climbed up into the 5th bolt but in 2010 the line evolved to climb the section right of the 4-5th bolts making that clip much easier.
39
pigsteak said on November 4th, 2012
great point michelle...when i first bolted it those tufas were amazing to figure out.
40
brayackmedia said on April 27th, 2014
You're such a sandbagger Kipp :), nice job on the route, totally loved it!!!!!!!!
41
Cocoapuffs1000 said on October 20th, 2016
If Spank warrants 4 stars, Malice should get 6...
42
pigsteak said on October 20th, 2016
curious...6 years later, is the big block still holding on?
43
Cocoapuffs1000 said on October 20th, 2016
If you mean the big block that you clip the third bolt from, then yes it is still there.
44
plafree said on May 1st, 2018
My GF sent your proj and accidentally cleaned a spirit off of it thinking it was mine. Message me if you want to claim it. Also, I had some old climb techs she abandoned on it after I got attacked by ground bees at the base. Hopefully you retired them.