Strongyloides

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

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80.
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Bathed in Light 5.12a (Sport) **

First Ascent: Andrew Wheatley in 2012
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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From the previous routes, head right along the cliff for a bit. Turn a corner and this route is on the arete. Climbs a gently overhanging face and arete.
Moves: techy
Descent: chains
Stays Dry: does not stay dry
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.75 stars (4 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (3 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Jul 15th, 2012

Comments

1
JR said on November 28th, 2009
Does it start with a crack? You guys should put a tag on it. It would have stopped me from trying it. I couldn't pull the moves. Bailed.
2
Wes said on November 28th, 2009
We just bolted it yesterday, and it has a fixed line on it. Might take a couple trips to get it cleaned and sent, but should be a pretty cool line when open. The late afternoon / early evening sun just lights up this wall - so pretty.
3
pigsteak said on November 28th, 2009
JR, if you are talking about the climb to the right of Malice, I bolted that, and it is open. I just bolted it since my rope was hanging on top. I know of a couple of people who are working it. let us know if it gets sent. I was only on it once. Wes and Tania's climb is the other way to teh right.
4
tania said on November 20th, 2011
This is now an OPEN project. Send any FA details to Ray once it's been sent.
5
brayackmedia said on March 20th, 2012
please tag this one - I didn't know it was a project and would have tried if Bentley had not told me it was a closed project
6
dustonian said on March 20th, 2012
it's open now and damn hard-sharp at the top. did you send?
7
dustonian said on March 20th, 2012
PS. not "5.11"
8
twan said on May 24th, 2012
I got on this and after breaking a few holds off with my ridiculous muscles I got about 3/4 up and just ran out of holds. After stick clipping past the blank section and continuing to the anchors I lowered down to the crux and came up with nothing. I also question the 5.11. I'll have to check this one out again after someone puts tape on the holds for me.
9
tbwilsonky said on May 26th, 2012
i'm gonna use orange tape so it blends in better
10
Andrew said on June 3rd, 2012
I sent today. I am assuming that I did the FA unless some one else wants to step up and say they did it. Really easy to two kind of hard balance moves. 12a. Maybe 11d
11
Anonymous said on June 3rd, 2012
a
12
dustonian said on June 12th, 2012
nice send Andrew!
13
@@@ said on April 22nd, 2013
why can't all 11d/12a's be like this
14
Andrew said on April 22nd, 2013
whay exactly does that mean?
15
Brentucky said on April 22nd, 2013
I bet it means he would be in climbing paradise because then he would have like 150+ climbs to find challenging instead of being boring warmups.
16
JR said on April 8th, 2014
Nice work Wes. Great FA Andrew. 11d my ass. Rad boulder problem up top. Not reachy, just difficult.