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Reload

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Arsenal

Chicken Little Loves Abubu


8.
+0
0 votes

Freakin' Deacon 5.12a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Andrew Wheatley in 2009
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Just right of Reload. Climb through large slots which quickly grow increasingly further apart and smaller. Tougher than it looks from the ground.
Moves: Bouldery
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.37 stars (19 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (21 votes)

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Comments

1
Andrew said on December 16th, 2009
The route is tongue-in-cheek named for my Dad, the greatest in the world. I have no clue how hard this route is especially for short people. I am really bad at grading routes, so... sorry if its a sandbag, or soft. Grade consensus will definitely be needed. Thanks for being a great climbing partner and an even better father.
2
One-Fall said on December 17th, 2009
Man, so cool to hear that instead of all the spray you normally have to filter thru. Cool as hell, Andrew.
3
Nick said on December 21st, 2009
I have recieved scandalous information concerning this route that would shake the climbing community to its foundation. I will tell the world unless Andrew gives me $23 and a hug. You have one week wheatley or else...
4
Andrew said on December 21st, 2009
Everybody already knows Nick, you are late to the party.
5
pigsteak said on December 21st, 2009
please do tell Nick..please do tell.
6
ray said on December 25th, 2009
Fun route. Thanks Andrew.
7
pigsteak said on January 9th, 2010
have you sent this route yet andrew?
8
Andrew said on January 10th, 2010
What is your definition of send?
9
pumpout2004 said on January 17th, 2010
hard!
10
dustonian said on April 29th, 2010
Uh, 12a? Are you guys high or was I doing something horribly wrong?
11
512OW said on April 29th, 2010
I thought it could be 12b for sure, but on onsight I definitely pulled off of what most are using as a foot and it got me all out of sequence. So, when dumbed down, I could also see 12a...
12
dustonian said on April 29th, 2010
Man, I don't know. There is some hard bouldering in there. Maybe you guys have gotten too strong to accurately rate 12a anymore!
13
pawilkes said on July 19th, 2010
feels mighty stout for a 12a. at the end of a hot day of July climbing this route was only finished with the help of a stick clip. i'd call it 12b, even if it is only move of 12b
14
JR said on November 30th, 2010
This route could have been the new Air Ride Equipped (giant ledge climbing) if it wasn't for that ass breaking crux. I could not think of a single 12a(maybe Hellraiser when it was a 12a) route with this hard of a move on it. Hard 12b IMO. Nice steep route though...If flexy dinner plate hold breaks this sucker is going to get hard....Well bolted Andrew!!!
15
Dhaulagiri said on October 31st, 2011
Was the "flexy dinner plate hold" in that middle section shortly after huge ledges end? It doesn't really look like anything broke but that part felt mostly impossible and much more difficult than its neighbors to the left.
16
Andrew said on October 31st, 2011
Flexy dinner plate is still there, it is just below the crux. Just pull harder.
17
Cromper said on December 4th, 2011
Awesome moves, needs more traffic! And I'll agree pretty damn hard for 12a.
18
Cromper said on August 13th, 2012
One of my favorite 12a's at the red! Thanks for putting this one up Andrew!
19
Brentucky said on September 24th, 2012
I always wandered around this route because it "looked" really hard, and it turns out I was right. This thing has an ass-breaking crux indeed. I think the "flexy dinner plate" hold is still there, and if it breaks this climb will be for mutants only. Nonetheless, this still seems to me to be the hardest on the wall. I'd say even though it is only a couple moves that make it, this one is more like a really, really hard 12b or 12c.
20
Andrew said on September 24th, 2012
I did it without the dinner plate and its still 12a
21
dustonian said on September 24th, 2012
it ain't no scarlet scorchdropper
22
Brentucky said on September 24th, 2012
Andrew, did you also do it without grabbing the crux hold(s)? ;-) Although it's not on my urgent "to-do list" I'll come back one day when I'm in the mood for a good V5 boulder problem equipped with dyno and a nice, clean fall. No way in hell I can pull on those holds static.
23
Marcel said on April 22nd, 2013
I did it today 2nd go, and statically with a high right dropknee... but all in all, it felt freakin' hard for .12a! My bet is hard .12b.... but i'm a newbie here so nvm
24
dustonian said on March 12th, 2014
4 years later, and I finally stuck the throw. Great route Andrew!
25
Andrew said on March 12th, 2014
Good job... After 4 years is the flexy dinner plate hold still there?
26
dustonian said on March 12th, 2014
You mean the nice jug just before at the start of the crux? That one's still there, tho I didn't notice any flexing. After actually trying the throw I agree with 12a... unless you're under 5'10", then maybe 13+
27
neeko said on April 26th, 2014
for you Dustin : I'm under 5'10 and I did it! It didn't feel like 12a for sure.
28
craig.smith1 said on December 31st, 2015
Hard
29
climb2core said on November 19th, 2018
Give your partner a bit of slack and a soft catch at the crux. A normal catch tends to put the climber swinging into to a large shelf that either would hit you in the chest or requires you to get your feet way up. Ideally the bolt could either be a bit lower or higher.
30
Anonymous said on November 19th, 2018
Add bolts!!!!! Move them!!!!! HURRY!!!!
31
climb2core said on November 19th, 2018
Yes, I know it's counter intuitive for anon dipshits that have never placed a bolt in their life, but bolt placements actually matter.
32
Anonymous said on November 19th, 2018
If anyone got hurt on this route, their belayer is a retard, don't blame the bolts idiot
33
Anonymous said on November 19th, 2018
Someone can't tell the different between bad bolts with good belay versus good bolts with bad belay.
34
climb2core said on November 20th, 2018
Yes, if the climber gets hurt it is 100% on the belayer. However, this route can be better engineered. Since it is sport climbing, and the bolt placement is 100% determined by the developer the routes should always be bolted to minimize unnecessary risk. That doesn't mean nanny bolting, but moving a bolt 12"-18" up or down can make a big difference.
35
Anonymous said on November 20th, 2018
For the last time, we're not saying retard anymore. So go ahead and take it out of your tiny little garbage ass vocabulary. K thx.
36
Anonymous said on November 21st, 2018
excuse me, can you not use the word 'garbage'? I'm not directly affected by it, but there is a category of objects in the universe that the word refers to, and those objects may or may not like being referred to as such. They can speak for themselves, but I'm an upstanding citizen and will speak for them because that's what they want me to do.
37
Anonymous said on November 21st, 2018
Sorry, you're just wrong about this and your comment isn't funny, clever, or interesting in any way. The r-word is hurtful and there is simply no reason to use it. Also, the irony is that the people who use it tend not to be all that impressive in terms of intellectual horsepower. My evidence on this is anecdotal, to be sure, but I would imagine there is a strong negative correlation between usage of the r-word and intelligence. I would guess r = -.60 at the very least.
38
Anonymous said on November 22nd, 2018
is it ok to call that exchange 'retarded'?
39
Andrew said on November 22nd, 2018
Can y’all go argue on the comments section of one of Ian’s routes or Scott’s and stay off mine. Thanks!