COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.
Just right of Eternal Fire is another power sapper with easier opening moves but a tougher finish. Race past moderately steep pinches and slopers to a much needed rest before the last bolt. Shove a leg in, get everything back, then pick your poison. If you've got your crimpers trained up then reach straight up for a tiny right hand seam and pull hard on it to reach a high crimp then bust for the ledge. If you've logged some time on the slopes then instead of heading straight up, move left from the rest on insane pinches and slopers to reach the anchor ledge. Either way is a tough boulder problem. Bring a bail biner. You'll need it.
Pumpy climbing on slopers and shallow pockets with no rests until the final break. Pretty hard heart-breaker boulder problem to the chains.Tough 3rd clip. If you get shut down at the last bolt you'll need a super long stick clip to reach the chains otherwise bring a bail biner.Thanks for bolting it Dave.
I don't mind tweaking bolt placements a bit next time I'm in town if anyone has a particular suggestion. Maybe I could raise the last bolt to make the final boulder problem easier to work. The third clip was placed to avoid clipping from a little fin that might break...maybe this can be adjusted too.
I don't think the 3rd can be moved anywhere else without putting it into the danger zone. It's just a tough clip. I wouldn't want to clip off of the ear hold though!
This is one of the, if not the best routes in the Red I have ever touch. I thought the bolt placements were perfect. This has one of the best finishing boulder problems to a route I have ever touched! GO GET ON THIS RIG!
Yeah! Glad you enjoyed it Allah. Did you go left right or center for the top boulder problem? Concensus 13b? I tried to rate it the hardest that could not possibly be downrated even if someone found better beta. Maybe this is setting up for sandbag, but it looks like other voters are agreeing.
I was only able to get on this route once while I was back east, and I thought it was harder than any other 13b in the Red and harder than most of the C's I tried and done. as for the top boulder I grabbed a bad sloppy pinch right hand and went straight up from that. The crimp seem felt way to hard, although I guess climbing all summer with out crimping once would make the crimp way seem way harder. This thing will never be downgraded to 13a that is for sure!
I got on this and worked out most of the moves, and this has to be one of the most stellar, absolutely bomber lines I have ever seen. Total. Classic. I'm psyched to get strong enough to actually send it...
Very very good job finding and bolting this. Impressed as hell! Undiscovered gem...
a
Solid middle of the grade, and the bottom 3/4 is possibly the best of the grade in the Red. The upper crimp way is annoying, but the easier method for sure. That upper part takes a half star away for me. One of the best.
someone broke a nice undercling hold between the 5th & 6th bolts, that section certainly wasn't the crux but for me the second hardest section, it wasn't me, by the way I wouldn't advise using that draw on the last bolt the dogbone looks pretty old, I would take it off but there is a quicklink on it that I believe has loctite on it
Went back for another round of this great rock climb two years later. Still one of the best. The broken undercling at the 5th doesn't change anything - feels about the same as before. The perma at the top, however, is a little sketch, the dogbone has that crunchy worn out feel to it, but the steel biner itself is still in good shape. Might want to consider replacing dogbone at least (you'll need a wrench) if you happen to see this and are planning on working on this route.
Just a heads up. Permas were installed on this route, which is nice. The anchors, however, do not have draws, carabiners, or quicklinks. Just chain. You can not see this from the ground...so prepare accordingly before embarking.
Amazing route in crisp temps. If you discover the right beta the top boulder does not add difficulty but it certainly adds to the experience! Quite a learning curve with this one.
I know the comments about bolt placements are super old, but I think if it gets rebolted, it would be well worth making the first 3 bolts all 2-3 feet higher. The ear that was in question still seems pretty solid 7 years later and the current clipping positions are all quite precarious and could lead to bad falls, especially with a light belayer.
That said, this thing was super hard for me (significantly harder than Goldenboy which everyone loves to call hard), but I also thought the top is great (bolt placement is perfect i think). I don't think it really adds difficulty but adds a cool bouldery move on crimps (or the other way, but i never figured that out). Either way, awesome route!
Just got on today. I whipped at the third bolt with a light belayer and didn't have any trouble but was close to smashing...another two feet maybe . But I clipped the non-perma bolt at the very beginning to alleviate bigger falls. The rest of the bolt placements seemed fine. Clips are tenuous but I expected it. 5'5"
As for the climb itself, holy shit it's amazing. I'll be back. I learned a lot now I need to gun.
Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).
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