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Eternal Fire

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

 Toxicondendron

10.
+1
1 votes

Cat's Demise 5.13b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Dave Hume in 2009
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Just right of Eternal Fire is another power sapper with easier opening moves but a tougher finish. Race past moderately steep pinches and slopers to a much needed rest before the last bolt. Shove a leg in, get everything back, then pick your poison. If you've got your crimpers trained up then reach straight up for a tiny right hand seam and pull hard on it to reach a high crimp then bust for the ledge. If you've logged some time on the slopes then instead of heading straight up, move left from the rest on insane pinches and slopers to reach the anchor ledge. Either way is a tough boulder problem. Bring a bail biner. You'll need it.
Moves: Slopey
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Private
Steepness:
fun (1) shady (1) beautiful (1) slopey (1) bouldery (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.89 stars (18 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13b (17 votes)

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Submitted by: 727foxtree
Date: Nov 18th, 2015

Submitted by: 727foxtree
Date: Nov 18th, 2015

Submitted by: ray
Date: Apr 18th, 2012

Comments

18 comments {add your own comments}
1
ray said on April 29th, 2010
Pumpy climbing on slopers and shallow pockets with no rests until the final break. Pretty hard heart-breaker boulder problem to the chains.Tough 3rd clip. If you get shut down at the last bolt you'll need a super long stick clip to reach the chains otherwise bring a bail biner.Thanks for bolting it Dave.
2
schwagpad said on May 5th, 2010
I don't mind tweaking bolt placements a bit next time I'm in town if anyone has a particular suggestion. Maybe I could raise the last bolt to make the final boulder problem easier to work. The third clip was placed to avoid clipping from a little fin that might break...maybe this can be adjusted too.
3
SCIN said on May 6th, 2010
I don't think the 3rd can be moved anywhere else without putting it into the danger zone. It's just a tough clip. I wouldn't want to clip off of the ear hold though!
4
Anonymous said on October 18th, 2010
went left, as hard as nagypapa, wtf
5
allah said on October 20th, 2010
This is one of the, if not the best routes in the Red I have ever touch. I thought the bolt placements were perfect. This has one of the best finishing boulder problems to a route I have ever touched! GO GET ON THIS RIG!
6
schwagpad said on November 15th, 2010
Yeah! Glad you enjoyed it Allah. Did you go left right or center for the top boulder problem? Concensus 13b? I tried to rate it the hardest that could not possibly be downrated even if someone found better beta. Maybe this is setting up for sandbag, but it looks like other voters are agreeing.
7
chosen1 said on November 16th, 2010
This route kicks ass. Much more along the lines of 13b in good temps. Fun and unique climbing. Thanks Dave.
8
allah said on November 16th, 2010
I was only able to get on this route once while I was back east, and I thought it was harder than any other 13b in the Red and harder than most of the C's I tried and done. as for the top boulder I grabbed a bad sloppy pinch right hand and went straight up from that. The crimp seem felt way to hard, although I guess climbing all summer with out crimping once would make the crimp way seem way harder. This thing will never be downgraded to 13a that is for sure!
9
Anonymous said on May 9th, 2011
I got on this and worked out most of the moves, and this has to be one of the most stellar, absolutely bomber lines I have ever seen. Total. Classic. I'm psyched to get strong enough to actually send it... Very very good job finding and bolting this. Impressed as hell! Undiscovered gem... a
10
der uber said on April 9th, 2012
A great boulder problem between every bolt. 5 stars.
11
512OW said on April 25th, 2012
Solid middle of the grade, and the bottom 3/4 is possibly the best of the grade in the Red. The upper crimp way is annoying, but the easier method for sure. That upper part takes a half star away for me. One of the best.
12
pumpout2004 said on September 24th, 2012
One of my all time favorites! The movement and holds are some of the most unique i have experienced. Cooler temps definitely make the grade fit.
13
heavyc said on October 30th, 2012
someone broke a nice undercling hold between the 5th & 6th bolts, that section certainly wasn't the crux but for me the second hardest section, it wasn't me, by the way I wouldn't advise using that draw on the last bolt the dogbone looks pretty old, I would take it off but there is a quicklink on it that I believe has loctite on it
14
pumpout2004 said on November 10th, 2014
Went back for another round of this great rock climb two years later. Still one of the best. The broken undercling at the 5th doesn't change anything - feels about the same as before. The perma at the top, however, is a little sketch, the dogbone has that crunchy worn out feel to it, but the steel biner itself is still in good shape. Might want to consider replacing dogbone at least (you'll need a wrench) if you happen to see this and are planning on working on this route.
15
Anonymous said on April 4th, 2016
Just a heads up. Permas were installed on this route, which is nice. The anchors, however, do not have draws, carabiners, or quicklinks. Just chain. You can not see this from the ground...so prepare accordingly before embarking.
16
Chuckdott said on December 8th, 2016
Amazing route in crisp temps. If you discover the right beta the top boulder does not add difficulty but it certainly adds to the experience! Quite a learning curve with this one.
17
Anonamoose said on November 26th, 2017
I know the comments about bolt placements are super old, but I think if it gets rebolted, it would be well worth making the first 3 bolts all 2-3 feet higher. The ear that was in question still seems pretty solid 7 years later and the current clipping positions are all quite precarious and could lead to bad falls, especially with a light belayer. That said, this thing was super hard for me (significantly harder than Goldenboy which everyone loves to call hard), but I also thought the top is great (bolt placement is perfect i think). I don't think it really adds difficulty but adds a cool bouldery move on crimps (or the other way, but i never figured that out). Either way, awesome route!
18
Anonymous said on March 6th, 2018
Just got on today. I whipped at the third bolt with a light belayer and didn't have any trouble but was close to smashing...another two feet maybe . But I clipped the non-perma bolt at the very beginning to alleviate bigger falls. The rest of the bolt placements seemed fine. Clips are tenuous but I expected it. 5'5" As for the climb itself, holy shit it's amazing. I'll be back. I learned a lot now I need to gun.