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Bathtub Mary

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Arsenal

Flesh Wound

1 votes

Picador 5.11b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens in 2010
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Next route right of Bathtub Mary. Climb through a thin beginning then mantel into a hueco. Crawl out of your hole to be rewarded with less stressful climbing to the chains. Use the cleaning draw on the last bolt to avoid swinging into the tree.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
pumpy (1) steep (1) crimpy (1)
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Quality Consensus

3.73 stars (55 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (54 votes)

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Submitted by: crackedcoco
Date: Jun 26th, 2017

Submitted by: Proudfeet
Date: Aug 2nd, 2013


dustonian said on June 20th, 2010
Careful clipping the third bolt from the midway ledge. The right finishing variation at the fourth bolt is 11d. Ole!
pawilkes said on July 2nd, 2010
some on the truest slab i've done in the red. this route makes you think and is delicate down low. gets a bit tricky again leaving the hueco
dustonian said on July 2nd, 2010
dang it Wilkes, now nobody's gonna climb this route! for the record, it's only slab up to the second bolt... true slabhaters can start on Bathtub Mary ;)
jdstic2 said on July 7th, 2010
how in the world is this route allowed in muir valley
pawilkes said on July 7th, 2010
it's really run out between 2 and 3. the climbing is easy but if something happened while mantling up you would take a very nasty fall. Dustin said he is going to put another bolt in when he gets back from his trip
dustonian said on July 12th, 2010
Alrighty, will do in August. If you are not comfortable on runout 5.2 please do not climb this route until then...sorry about that & thx for the feedback :-/
pigsteak said on July 13th, 2010
ah, the glory of bolting.....two extra bolts were added to Battub Mary for similar reasons it looks like I was a scared
rdo'c said on July 27th, 2010
Very diverse route, slab to tenuous crux to fun jug haul to tougher than anticipated finish. Fun. Be aware of the pine tree when lowering from the anchors. It says it just wants to be friends but I think it has darker intentions.
dustonian said on September 7th, 2010
Another bolt added between the original 2nd and 3rd, so the 5.2 section is now extra special safe. That means the 11d finishing variation now goes right at the fifth bolt instead of the 4th (along the obvious horizontal jug).
bcombs said on October 17th, 2010
Good route. Felt hard for 11b at the top.
Yasmeen said on November 7th, 2010
Really fun route - I liked the variation, too. Good additions to the wall - thanks, Dustin. :)
JR said on November 30th, 2010
Route felt like a variation of Bathtub Mary. Shared many holds. Also, the variation of this variation is not 11d(closer to 11b). Having said that, it is fun. More bolts=more fun!!!!
dustonian said on November 30th, 2010
Huh, I didn't share any holds with BM (except the hueco of course) when I did it... interesting. In any case glad to hear the variation is cleaning up and becoming more obvious. Going to have an independent finish soon, just gotta go put the bolts in the holes.
pigsteak said on December 1st, 2010
please tell me these routes do not share anchors..isn't there some "rule" about that without asking?
dustonian said on December 1st, 2010
No, BM and this route don't share anchors...not even close. The shared anchor is for the left version of Picador that goes into the hueco and the harder version that goes right at the 5th bolt.
pigsteak said on December 1st, 2010
why did I ever doubt...
One-Fall said on March 4th, 2011
Possible favorite for the wall.
Saxman said on March 29th, 2011
Anyone know what the red Petzl Protec is hanging on the right variation's first bolt for?
dustonian said on March 29th, 2011
Sorry, I extended the variation through the last roof and was waiting for the glue to dry the other day to send it. The right route has its own anchor now and 2 additional bolts. It should be a nice addition to the wall, a big move at the roof on jugs, maybe 12a or so. Wanna go Friday?
Jeff said on December 24th, 2011
Total fun with a perplexing move down low!
Brentucky said on December 27th, 2011
Unless I missed something I thought the most stressful climbing was going to the chains, but I did have someone else to work out the crux beta down low. Good route.
dustonian said on December 28th, 2011
I agree, Brenty... the hard part is at the top. Ray was smokin' sumthin when he wrote that description.
pigsteak said on December 30th, 2011
crux is down should be easy peezy for a sport climber.
dustonian said on December 30th, 2011
aha, no wonder the top part felt hard for me!
climb2core said on March 6th, 2012
Man, I have gotten on this climb as the last climb of my day twice while at the Arsenal. Both times I punted going from the hueco to the chains. Feels like more than a letter grade difference than its 11a neighbor. Maybe BM should be 10d or Picador should be 11c..
dustonian said on March 6th, 2012
did you find the undercling? go from that all the way to the jug ledge, using the crimp intermediate. probably V2... hard to call it 11c since you do it from a no-hands.
Spikeddem said on March 7th, 2012
Dustonian is right on with his comment.
dustonian said on March 7th, 2012
Actually Ian, it may be 11c in your weight bracket.
climb2core said on March 7th, 2012
Yeah, I have just been dead tired when getting on it. I guess what I was trying to say is that BM is realistically more like 10d as more than 1 letter grade separates these two climbs.
climb2core said on March 7th, 2012
Ha ha, just saw your comment Dustin. I think if we are "weighting" grades, should be given a full number grade. So really I am a 13b crusher!
lena_chita said on May 7th, 2012
A fun route! I thought the crux was at the bottom for sure, and solid 5.11b. I was pretty proud of myself for puzzling it out. The top was just pumpy, but easy. And then I watched 2 6ft-tall guys climb it by completely skipping my "crux". One of the guys couldn't even send a 5.10d to the left after 3 tries, but did manage to send this one, and thought it was easier than 5.10d.
Willy said on November 22nd, 2012
I agree a lot harder than bathtub (which is very soft at the grade). The slab and middle are very casual compared to the crux going for the chains. The undercling move wasn't bad but gettting set up to do it was pretty hard.
Anonymous said on March 11th, 2013
awesome route, really enjoyed it, great job.
kurktj said on August 19th, 2013
There was a bat in the big slot before the overhang that you may want to check for before you stick your hand in
dustonian said on July 4th, 2014
Yep, bat was there again a month ago.. sketchballs!
DrRockso said on April 28th, 2015
Attention: Beware of the butthole spike, to those sad individuals who did not get this message in time, may god have mercy on you.
hannahdwyer said on September 20th, 2016
watch out, the bat is still there! living in the slot-jug at the sixth (I think) bolt. it's not a very deep hold and would be easy to accidentally grab the bat instead of the rock!
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2017
This and the route next to it are perfect for simul-sitting in a hueco. Also, this route is definitely Picador at the Arsenal. --Matt Nasty