DreadLocked

This route is located in the Southern Region at Bob Marley Crag

Toker


2.
+1
1 votes

Crosley 5.11c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Andrew Wheatley, Mike Wheatley, Phil Wilkes, Arthur Cammers in 2010
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route was created in memory of Mike Tucker. Begin on the same boulder as for Toker but trend left at the start and climb through overhanging plates and pockets. Reserve some juice for the demanding lockoff move near the end.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chain anchors
Stays Dry: Stays dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.91 stars (47 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (46 votes)

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Comments

1
Andrew said on July 13th, 2010
I didn't know this until recently when I asked some of Tucker's closest friends for a good name, but Mike used this word "Crosley" that he made up. I had heard him say it but didn't know what he was talking about. Apparently Mike just assumed everyone understood the definition, but most were just confused, like me. A "Crosley" is a bad hold. Example, "Lock off that gaston and bump off that crosley to the jug." We will miss you Tucker.
2
pawilkes said on July 13th, 2010
a great addition to bob marley. the rest at the break 2/3 up keeps it from being 11d.
3
said on July 19th, 2010
Freaking amazing route!!!!!!!Get on it....perfect addition to the crag...... 5 stars!!!!
4
Lateralus said on July 21st, 2010
Don't mean to rain on your parade but the word "crosley" was used at least in the early 90s if not before by limestone climbers for the prickly features that form on a lot of limestone (usually higher quality). Nice gesture but innacurate.
5
Andrew said on July 21st, 2010
Lateralus is right. I learned that on Saturday when a rifle climber used it. Makes sense now, why none of us east coaster understood it. Just assumed he made it up. I guess it makes the story even funnier now.
6
Spoonman said on July 22nd, 2010
Hey Andrew (and crew).....the name grabbed my attention, which may have multiple defintions: one being a name. Powell Crosley Jr. was a wealthy business man and inventer. His company built the "Crosley Car" which interesting to note: got 50 mpg back in 1940 ish. Yes, we have evolved a great deal since then. He also built radio's and appliances. He was also owner of the Cincinatti Reds....1934 to ? after the war I believe? He is responsible for the first night game in MLB i believe, and he has an older (large field named after him). His war efforts appear to be considerable also Why do I know this......as a wealthy sport buff ...back in the day....he owned his own hunting ground....in Jennings County, IN. Eventually he donated it to the state and it is 4000 acre State Fish and Life Area. For what it is worth, there is limestone (caves and cliff) on the property.
7
Nick said on July 26th, 2010
wow wayyyyy better than toker and way pumpier. great route
8
climb2core said on September 3rd, 2010
Spoonman, Funny that you mention Powell Crosley. My friend and business partner is his grandson, Rusty McClure. Incidentally, he wrote a book (among others) about this grandfather and great uncle's empire... Called "Crosely" Excellent read. Amazing story that no one knows about...
9
dustonian said on November 21st, 2010
Excellent route! Pretty wild at top and stout for grade. Nice work fellas.... just curious, did you have to scrub dirt off all the holds, or does this route follow a cleaner line between the two gnarly dirt streaks?
10
Yasmeen said on February 14th, 2011
Awesome route, guys! Thanks for taking a chance and bolting what looks like a dirty line - the moves are great, and it has cleaned up nicely!
11
der uber said on March 21st, 2011
I was surprised no holds broke. The top part over the bulge was very fun. Climbed better than I expected.
12
Lander said on April 14th, 2011
I love this rock climb. A great addition to a great cliff.
13
vertical1 said on April 15th, 2011
If it has cleanedup nicely, I hate to see what it started out as. There was dirt all over the place, but surprisingly I only had my feet crumble under me a couple times. Great movement though, and will eventually be a 4 or 5 star climb
14
Jeff said on November 7th, 2011
Great line Andrew. Really enjoyed it!
15
pigsteak said on November 7th, 2011
thanks Andrew..this thing is super good!
16
dustonian said on October 17th, 2012
The bolts/hangers are already starting to leach into the rock as the did with Toker, it would be nice to swap both routes out 100% with stainless steel before the stains on the rock get any worse.
17
dustonian said on October 17th, 2012
BTW this is one of the very best 5.11 sport routes in the Red IMO!
18
XplosionOflaver said on March 9th, 2014
It now has draws at the top.
19
whoneedsfeet said on March 30th, 2014
Fun movement with some great exposure toward the top.