Goldilocks

This route is located in the Southern Region at Solar Collector and Gold Coast

No Fluff


22.
+0
0 votes

Suns Out Guns Out 5.12b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Dave Lins, Andrew Wheatley in 2010
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route follows an obvious feature and begins on a high ledge right of True Love. Begin with a big cross move to a pocket then bust up to a flake. Ride the flake to enter a sea of pockets and edges. Make the right decision on which holds to grab and you might just have enough left to beat the smackdown going for the anchors.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Anchors with quicklinks
Stays Dry: Stays dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.7 stars (10 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (7 votes)

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Submitted by: brayackmedia
Date: Oct 20th, 2014

Comments

1
dustonian said on September 9th, 2010
sweet! thanks guys.
2
Andrew said on September 9th, 2010
Hard start, hard finish on really cool feature climbing. Hope yall enjoy, and hope the grade is accurate. Beta intensive cruxes.
3
pumpout2004 said on September 10th, 2010
a route for mortals on the gold coast. incredibly awesome first move followed by nice resistance climbing up a wave of great stone and ending with a cool crux. Great eye Andrew, thanks for the chance at another FA! FLYING SQUIRREL!!!!
4
512OW said on October 25th, 2010
I actually thought that the first move was one of the easiest on the route, and that the middle was the hardest. Weird. Regardless, pretty unique climbing, and a worthy addition. The top, while not hard, is really cool. Several options up there, and I didn't use the crimps at all...
5
ray said on February 21st, 2011
Cool feature climbing. Thanks Andrew. I popped a belay bolt in with a rope to assist up to the ledge.
6
jimmy said on February 24th, 2011
Thanks, Ray! I was up there last week, and opted out of doing the climb because I was too much of a wuss to traverse the choss to the starting ledge. Now I've got a hot date with SOGO!
7
Yasmeen said on October 3rd, 2011
The first part is easier if you do the opposite of Andrew's beta. ;) Really fun line - even the game of dodge the choss in the middle is fun! Thanks for the line, Andrew, and thanks for putting the bolts high enough that you have to do the sweet, unique finishing moves.
8
jbro said on November 14th, 2011
Rad route. Start section is fun bouldery climbing, middle techy arete section was pretty unique. Epic'd on the top section on black rock in the hot sun, for a while I didn't think I was getting my draws back without a rope gun!
9
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2011
don't worry, the CREW will clean them for you!
10
Anonymous said on October 20th, 2014
nice Euro-loop
11
dustonian said on November 10th, 2014
Nice one Andrew
12
Anonymous said on September 20th, 2019
What a shit belay in that pic!