The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Land Before Time Wall

Prehistoric Extermination


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+1
1 votes

Sabertooth 5.10c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Isaac Heacock in 2010
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Start directly under the first bolt, or for variety traverse in from the ramp, to the first bolt. Move through hidden pockets and crimps to plate jugs above. Mantle the top to anchors in the roof.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Bolted anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
juggy (1) pinches (1) fingers (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

2.89 stars (56 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10c (51 votes)

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Comments

1
pawilkes said on October 15th, 2010
the crux move on this is super cool
2
rrgclimber said on October 17th, 2010
the variation is the traverse.if u climb the ramp u should down grade the route.otherwise the route is very cool.
3
Dman said on October 18th, 2010
didnt really feel 10c more like 10a
4
rrgclimber said on October 29th, 2010
yay maybe 10a if use the ramp
5
heacocis said on October 30th, 2010
From what I've heard and seen most folks are moving out left to some plates, instead of using the intended and more direct line of pockets that follows the bolts. I thought the plates would be too far left. Obviously they are not, so vote and change the grade to 10a.
6
rrgclimber said on October 31st, 2010
the direct line is to follow the bolts. the variation is the ramp which would be 10a.dont vote to change the grade just put the variation in the description of the route.that should take care the problems.
7
heacocis said on November 1st, 2010
um, the ramp is already described as a variation. Yes, the ramp probably makes the route a bit easier, but the route is much easier if you climb to the third bolt out left of the bolt line. If you stay pretty much under the bolt line, then I think the route is harder. Either way, the grade should reflect how people are actually climbing the route.
8
channes said on November 2nd, 2010
Did the direct line, didn't seem unreasonable. Top roped it after my children climbed using the ramp to the first bolt, maybe slightly easier. Never thought of going left, didn't look like that was part of the route.
9
Anonymous said on April 15th, 2011
The first half is the crux, which is what makes it a 10. Crimpy until the third bolt, then it's all solid, fun plates from there. Recommend not using the ramp.
10
KifuCoffeeRoaster said on January 19th, 2012
10c rating is justified without the ramp. though the rest is no more than a 9, IMO. tiny crimps turn into big plates. fun, but the challenge isn't sustained.
11
lena_chita said on August 7th, 2012
Direct start is a bit tricky if you are short, but the moves are cool. And IMO the route could have ended before the sandy topout onto the ledge. It doesn't add anything to the route, only detracts.
12
stime187 said on November 12th, 2013
Cool route, great initial boulder problem to the 2nd bolt. Agreed on the anchors... I would have preferred they be just below the ledge rather than on it. Makes for terrible rub on the rope if someone wants to top-rope it.
13
Episketch said on June 12th, 2014
The direct start was fun - highly recommended. I am 5'5" and didn't have any problems reaching holds.
14
Rx2Climb said on August 6th, 2014
I would never let anyone top-rope or lower off this route (at least not on my rope). The rope drag would be horrible on the ledge before the anchors. Lead climb and rappel down. I loved the route, but wish the anchors were before the ledge at the end.
15
MrHyde said on October 31st, 2014
With the direct start, I would rate this probably around a 10b; 10c seems a bit much, considering that after the second bolt, the ease increases significantly.