Ryanosaurus

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Land Before Time Wall

Neanderfall


.
+2
2 votes

Watering Hole 5.10a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Isaac Heacock in 2010
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Start on a ledge with a large hole in it. Climb through pockets and sidepulls to a challenging roof move. Use more pockets and sidepulls to the top. Top out to anchors back on a a large ledge. When lowering, stay left of the small crack at the top to avoid rope drag.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Bolted anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.34 stars (44 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (35 votes)

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Comments

1
jkpugel said on October 23rd, 2010
Fun route, absolutely awful rope drag...
2
channes said on November 2nd, 2010
Fun route with a neat little roof/bulge move. A real chore to belay someone on toprope due to the rope drag and the rope catching in the crack by the last bolt. Would be more stars if it ended at the last bolt with the second anchor bolt on the right side of the crack. Going to the ledge didn't seem to add anything to the route.
3
pigsteak said on November 7th, 2010
for sure move the anchors away from the crack.
4
louisville_climber said on November 17th, 2010
rope drag is better if you extend the 5th bolt with a sling
5
louisville_climber said on November 17th, 2010
I meant on Ryanosaurus. oops.
6
Redpoint said on March 26th, 2011
I definitely don't recommend toproping this thing unless you bring a hammer with you to bash away the sharp rock features on top of the ledge where your rope is going to be laying.
7
heacocis said on March 29th, 2011
My intention for putting the anchor up on the ledge was that the ledge would make a cool platform to bring up the second on a top belay, then rappel off. We experimented with it as a normal toprope (bottom belay) and found that with some attention the rope would run clear of the crack. I may add a second bolt to create a lower anchor though based on the comments.
8
Josephine said on June 19th, 2011
a second anchor is needed. if you want to practice to belay up your second and rap down that would be nice, but this is the red. we don't have a lot of multi pitch climbs and no multi pitch sport that i know of. if someone really wants to practice that skill for going to another climbing area, they can surely do it on something like bedtime for bonzo or one of the other multi pitch trad routes. why ruin a great route with horrible rope drag? :-( once the anchor is lowered and the rope drag is gone it will be a great route! :-) until then, it would probably be better just to lead it and not TR it (or I supposed you could TR it by putting a cam in the crack at the top and creating your own anchor if you really want!)
9
heacocis said on June 27th, 2011
Okay okay okay. Today I put in a second bolt next to the last bolt on the route, creating an anchor there. So now you can avoid the the "topout" and rope drag. The original anchor is still above though, if anyone wants to run a top belay. I hope this improves peoples' experience on the route.
10
Jumprope said on November 4th, 2011
Brothers girlfreind broke ankle on this, recomend climing over to the side and clip in above the ledge if not comfortable.
11
jenbongo said on November 26th, 2012
Yeah, we didn't think the bolts protected the crux very well on this one.
12
fujifame said on April 21st, 2014
I really liked the route. One of the moves about 3/4 of the way up might leave you decking out to a ledge if you, or your belayer, aren't careful. It wouldn't be to bad, but you might roll an ankle or something if you aren't careful. Other than that the route seems to have a nice flow and would be nice for newer climbers that want a little more of a challenge.
13
Rx2Climb said on August 6th, 2014
One of my friends decked on the ledge going for the last bolt. Not an easy clip, but probably still a 10a.
14
turbo2000gt said on May 15th, 2017
I thought this was a fun little route. 5.10a seems like an appropriate rating on the Muir scale.