Day Dreaming |
This route is located in the Upper Gorge Region at Eagle Point Buttress |
Day-Yum! |
5.
+6
6 votes
6 votes
Day Tripping 5.10 (Trad) *****
First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Siamak Pazirandeh in 2010
Length: 270ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)
This spectacular line tops out Eagle Point Buttress making it one of the better new multi-pitch lines in the Red. Begin by climbing Day Dreaming then continue up through two more pitches of great climbing via the following pitches:
Dustin Stephens' description:
"pitch 2: 5.10, 80'. Climb the beautiful overhanging crack trending left through two roofs on good holds. Watch for a little loose rock at the first roof (5.8+), then crank over the second roof and continue up the incredible corner with plenty of thank-god pro (small-medium) to keep you from ledging out. Belay on a huge platform from good gear. Pitches 1 and 2 would link with a lot of medium cams & runners. There is a tree for rapping here (no webbing as yet) if people are not psyched on the woolly wideness of p3.
pitch 3: 5.9, 110'. Lieback up the corner crack on the left, past a dead tree, then into a perfect chimney with gear in the back. Near the top contort into the Yosemite-like slot and tunnel through for about 35' of moderate squeeze chimney (optional #5; small gear here and there). There is a bit of dirt (and the occasional beer can) as you get closer to the top, but this is undoubtedly one of the most enjoyable chimneys we have ever climbed, anywhere!"
Moves: unknown
Descent: Walk off to climber's right
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Descent: Walk off to climber's right
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness: |
sunny (1) exposed (1) adventerous (1) hands (1) long (1) offwidth (1) fun (1) beautiful (1) fingers (1) dihedral (1) classic (1) Add / Edit Tags |
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Whoa.. you're green behind the ears!
How about taking a quick tour or getting up to speed with the Spray Wizard?
Thanks but don't I'll be alright. (all gumbies' famous last words)
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