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Day Dreaming

This route is located in the Upper Gorge Region at Eagle Point Buttress

 Day-Yum!

5.
+5
5 votes

Day Tripping 5.10 (Trad) *****

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Siamak Pazirandeh in 2010
Length: 270ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This spectacular line tops out Eagle Point Buttress making it one of the better new multi-pitch lines in the Red. Begin by climbing Day Dreaming then continue up through two more pitches of great climbing via the following pitches: Dustin Stephens' description: "pitch 2: 5.10, 80'. Climb the beautiful overhanging crack trending left through two roofs on good holds. Watch for a little loose rock at the first roof (5.8+), then crank over the second roof and continue up the incredible corner with plenty of thank-god pro (small-medium) to keep you from ledging out. Belay on a huge platform from good gear. Pitches 1 and 2 would link with a lot of medium cams & runners. There is a tree for rapping here (no webbing as yet) if people are not psyched on the woolly wideness of p3. pitch 3: 5.9, 110'. Lieback up the corner crack on the left, past a dead tree, then into a perfect chimney with gear in the back. Near the top contort into the Yosemite-like slot and tunnel through for about 35' of moderate squeeze chimney (optional #5; small gear here and there). There is a bit of dirt (and the occasional beer can) as you get closer to the top, but this is undoubtedly one of the most enjoyable chimneys we have ever climbed, anywhere!"
Moves: unknown
Descent: Walk off to climber's right
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
adventerous (1) hands (1) long (1) offwidth (1) fun (1) beautiful (1) fingers (1) dihedral (1) classic (1) sunny (1) exposed (1)
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5 stars (23 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (17 votes)

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Submitted by: Catawaba
Date: Oct 20th, 2017

Submitted by: Catawaba
Date: Oct 20th, 2017

Submitted by: dustonian
Date: Nov 24th, 2010

Submitted by: dustonian
Date: Nov 24th, 2010

Comments

26 comments {add your own comments}
1
dustonian said on November 23rd, 2010
If you don't link 1 and 2 (challenging), it is better to belay out right and above the existing anchor on the big ledge (several medium-large cams), rather than from the hanging belay of Day Dreaming where you are exposed to potential rockfall from pitch 2 (wear a helmet). This is a great route and will not take much traffic to become very clean!
2
dustonian said on November 26th, 2010
If you decide to walk off, it would be desperate getting shoes up through the final slot... you can barely even get a helmet through there. It sounds like the third pitch may have been climbed before as "Stephens' Slot" (see description for "The Integral")... but who knows for sure. It's a great pitch in any case!
3
dustonian said on October 1st, 2011
1st belay now bolted. 2nd takes a small nut + 1/2" cams above, and there is now a rap anchor on the tree. It's pretty "alpine," so bring some slings and biners if you're the type that likes to beef stuff up. Or just top out via the third pitch, it kicks ass.
4
LK Day said on May 10th, 2012
Wow! Way to go guys. What a great discovery. Not sure how I missed what should have been the obvious finish for my one pitch line. Congratulations!
5
kwatts711 said on May 28th, 2012
Does anyone have a gps location on this? I could not find it, I followed the instructions in the guidebook and could not find the wall?
6
dustonian said on May 29th, 2012
I don't have GPS coordinates, but I know the hike well. It can be harder to find stuff in summer, but this is basically the only cliff you can see on the approach when the leaves are in.. look for a huge orange buttress with a prominent corner system up and left of the river. Basically, stick close to the river on an eroding trail past 2 sets of limestone cliffs. After roughly hiking 1-1.5 miles of hiking (~20 min) and crossing two obvious tributaries, head up and left on the climber/rappeller trail just past a well-used camping site that often has fire rings... the trail deposits you just right of Foxfire and Day Dreaming (first pitch of this route). A common mistake is to go up to soon and wind up at Moonshiner's or Doorish Walls. PM caribe, he may have GPS info.
7
caribe said on June 22nd, 2012
37.82344409980 -83.55347921540 Eagle Point. 37.8262, -83.5622 Fox Fire
8
510JAM said on July 10th, 2012
best adventure climbing at the red, hands Down!!! anyone clean my #5 from the third pitch yet? i kinda walked it out a lil too far into #4 range...
9
Cromper said on July 10th, 2012
On that note, time to go do this route! Haha
10
dustonian said on July 11th, 2012
go do it then, mr. faggy pants
11
whoneedsfeet said on July 11th, 2012
Ahhh have you seen his pants recently? He covered the easy access hole. Maybe you'll have to wine and done him first next time. As for myself I'm just glad I don't have to stare at his b-hole when I belay now.
12
Spikeddem said on July 11th, 2012
Thanks for censuring yourself and protecting us from the word "b***" Jimmy. A gentleman and a scholar.
13
gravitycoach said on October 12th, 2012
Soo freakin' cool. What a great route! Thanks Dustin, totally agree with your comments, had a ball. Definitely the best adventure climb in the Red that I've been on! 510JAM - apparently your #5 is still there - leader saw it and I wanted to take a whack at it but never even noticed it. still not sure where it is but leader said it was "fixed" and not comin' out anytime soon!
14
cliftongifford said on November 28th, 2012
One of the best in the gorge! We went out left of the roof, instead of going through the tunnel, looks like 510JAM went that way as well... The cam is still there.
15
dustonian said on November 28th, 2012
Awesome! How is it traversing out that roof? Looks pretty wild...
16
cliftongifford said on November 29th, 2012
Not as bad as it looks. Easy climbing and awesome exposure.
17
tpowell said on November 23rd, 2014
If you climb one route in the whole gorge, this should be it.
18
gpowellhb said on November 24th, 2014
sooooooo legit
19
brhe224 said on July 27th, 2015
My favorite 10 in the gorge! It's also doable to link pitch one and two together, just bring some extra slings.
20
halg said on June 7th, 2016
Great rock climb. Loved the Stephens slot lol
21
taurusclimber said on December 4th, 2016
There is a Black Diamond #2 C4 and an alpine draw with two Positron biners somewhere on this climb. I went up with three, came down with two, and the most reasonable place for it to be is somewhere around the second pitch belay ledge. In any case, it's somewhere on the climb, and I haven't decided to go back and get it yet. Get it before the winter and early spring weather abuse it!
22
taurusclimber said on December 25th, 2016
Cam returned, thanks Nathan.
23
njclimber said on June 4th, 2017
Superb route. First half of the third pitch reminded me of the North Chimney on Castleton Tower. Took doubles to 3 and only placed one 3 on each pitch. A #4 would not go unused but if you are solid at the grade a single 3 should suffice. Leave the 5 at home...
24
wsimek said on November 21st, 2018
If you’re going to rap, a 70-meter rope (or something close) is recommended to get from the summit back to the party ledge at the start of pitch 3.
25
DrRockso said on November 22nd, 2018
But Billy it's a walk off!
26
wsimek said on November 24th, 2018
These people in Colorado kept telling me the best way to descend any rock climb is by rappel, so that is all I do now whether it be multi-pitch trad, overhung sport, free soloing Gumby Unicorn, or Yosemite big wall.