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Butane Junky

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

 Old School Chocolate

27.
+1
1 votes

Wonkaholic 5.10a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Blake Bowling, Steve Kauffman
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Just around the corner from Butane Junky is this interesting moderate. Climb through 4 bolts of large plates to reach a ledge where the holds get smaller and tougher to reach. If you know how to fistjam the end may be a little easier for you.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Rap rings
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.13 stars (85 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (82 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Apr 17th, 2012

Comments

13 comments {add your own comments}
1
Jeff said on April 22nd, 2011
Fun route, don't get too mindless, you might have to think a bit at the top.
2
Saxman said on February 19th, 2012
Fun route. Loved the top.
3
Dmack said on May 13th, 2012
New route just to the left of this one...anyone know who bolted it??
4
Wolf said on May 13th, 2012
Troy from Iowa bolted that.
5
Dmack said on May 13th, 2012
Adam taylor sent the thing to the left of this thing yesterday if it hasnt been done yet
6
Anonymous said on May 29th, 2012
yeah the route to the left is called Butane Junky-12bish, super fun and on you for a while, i really liked it and think some of you tech slab masters will enjoy it- sorry Adam, you are a close 2nd on the sends, but hope you all enjoy this sweet looking line
7
pigsteak said on June 25th, 2012
how did this go up in 1998> if i recall it just got bolts int he past two years...
8
EricDorsey said on July 30th, 2012
Great route. Huge plates to start and the last two or three bolts up the arete were really fun.
9
vegastradguy said on October 8th, 2012
super fun climbing- the arete and its finish are 5-star for sure. fantastic!
10
bentley said on November 20th, 2012
I bolted this but I am pretty sure Blake did it with someone on top rope years ago.
11
nik said on March 19th, 2013
felt one of the huge plate jugs flex right after i clipped the second bolt. pulled it off and left it at the base of the climb. shouldn't really change the difficulty -- use one of the other jugs through that part. oh, and cool climb!
12
Rx2Climb said on October 23rd, 2014
After I onsighted this route RSMoore pointed out that I should have used the crack on the right at the top with all the chalk instead of pulling some ridiculous slab moves going left to the anchors. This is probably why I was cursing and thought that it was extremely dificult for 5.10b. Basically, I am stupid and this route was a lot of fun.
13
Spagel said on October 29th, 2021
Great route! Don't go right! Take the sketchy slab moves and enjoy.