COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.
Just around the corner from Butane Junky is this interesting moderate. Climb through 4 bolts of large plates to reach a ledge where the holds get smaller and tougher to reach. If you know how to fistjam the end may be a little easier for you.
Moves: Jugs Descent: Rap rings Stays Dry: Does not stay dry Owner:
Private
yeah the route to the left is called Butane Junky-12bish, super fun and on you for a while, i really liked it and think some of you tech slab masters will enjoy it- sorry Adam, you are a close 2nd on the sends, but hope you all enjoy this sweet looking line
felt one of the huge plate jugs flex right after i clipped the second bolt. pulled it off and left it at the base of the climb. shouldn't really change the difficulty -- use one of the other jugs through that part. oh, and cool climb!
After I onsighted this route RSMoore pointed out that I should have used the crack on the right at the top with all the chalk instead of pulling some ridiculous slab moves going left to the anchors. This is probably why I was cursing and thought that it was extremely dificult for 5.10b. Basically, I am stupid and this route was a lot of fun.
Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).
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