Old School Chocolate

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Snozzberries


29.
+1
1 votes

Hip to the Jive 5.11b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Bentley Brackett in 2010
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
A fun and pumpy ride beginning with 3 bolts of easy crack climbing then exits right onto a steepening face filled with shallow pockets and sloping pinches.
Moves: Pinches
Descent: Bolts
Stays Dry: Stays dry
Owner: Private
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

3.87 stars (78 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (80 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: usmcmars
Date: Oct 4th, 2013

Submitted by: usmcmars
Date: Oct 4th, 2013

Submitted by: mikeet
Date: Apr 24th, 2013

Submitted by: mcisAJ
Date: Aug 22nd, 2012

Submitted by: ray
Date: Apr 30th, 2012

Comments

1
JR said on December 16th, 2010
Mirror image to Minimum Creep but with a narrower crack.
2
allen said on February 24th, 2011
I say this route should get a route name. Its too good to go as "Choco-Factory-Unknown-3"! reading through Willy Wonka quotes and found - "Hip to the Jive" ?
3
dustonian said on February 24th, 2011
I like it!
4
Anonymous said on February 24th, 2011
pretty sure bently bolted this one and the one to the left
5
Jeff said on April 22nd, 2011
Gave it 11c but think with beta figured out a little better, 11b is about route right. Cool start, gets on ya, then gentle finish. As it stands there are 2 biners per anchor bolt, would really benefit having about 12-16" of chain added. Liked it!
6
Yasmeen said on April 20th, 2012
Updated the name. Bentley: if you *hate* the name and want it changed, let me know.
7
twan said on April 24th, 2012
Yasmeen I hate the name.
8
pigsteak said on June 25th, 2012
still needs long chain on the anchors...as it stands there are like 4-5 biners linked together up there...solid line nonetheless.
9
mssmith said on November 19th, 2012
Now has one chain and one manky nylon sling
10
bentley said on November 20th, 2012
Hey Yasi, I would prefer that the name be changed to "Little Man In The Boat". Thanks! ;)
11
Jeff said on November 20th, 2012
What's up with that first bolt Bentley? It's a good conversation piece! I figured it was all you had left and used it.
12
dustonian said on November 20th, 2012
perhaps a cockring for Blake in exchange for bolting his crack?
13
Anonymous said on November 20th, 2012
Its Bentley's Prince Albert piercing
14
Spikeddem said on February 25th, 2013
I'm impressed someone downgraded this to 11a
15
usmcmars said on April 15th, 2013
We were there this weekend. Loved the climb. The party climbing next to us removed the extremely worn biners and sling. One of the biners was getting sharp and the sling was starting to fray. I think they may have taken a picture. Now there is only one chain and nothing on the other anchor bolt.
16
mikeet said on April 24th, 2013
scary worn aluminum shown. yikes
17
climb2core said on April 24th, 2013
Is this route that steep that it is hard to clean?
18
Anonymous said on April 24th, 2013
That's from the anchor.
19
Cromper said on April 25th, 2013
Probably should have a cleaning draw on it though.
20
usmcmars said on October 4th, 2013
We went back to it yesterday and my friend Spyder added a chain to the anchors so now they are equalized. I think the lowering biners may not be steel, so we need to keep an eye on them.
21
lena_chita said on October 5th, 2013
btw, a couple of weekends ago we saw someone take a fall from the upper part of this route and hit the ledge on Wonkaholic, busting her ankle. I have never felt even remotely in-danger by when i climbed Hip to the Jive, and I would have said that the ledge was not in the way, but I guess it is. While the person climbing was relatively inexperienced, I don't think they did anything drastically wrong, except, maybe, attempting to clip from a wrong hold. May not be the best route to practice falling on.
22
usmcmars said on October 5th, 2013
Wow, I fell on it and didn't feel like I was anywhere near hitting anything.
23
PeterHirschkorn said on October 17th, 2013
!!! Snake's home directly at the start !!! Belayer: Watch out and be ready to run ;)
24
RTE said on November 26th, 2013
Was on this today, didnt see any worn aluminum at the top, just chains. I threw some steel I had in my pack up there to keep the chains from getting worn out. should be good for a while i hope.
25
Anonymous said on November 26th, 2013
There's no aluminum because we pulled them off the other week, as well as a few others. These routes don't need fixed anchors. Learn to clean. Your biners will be stripped soon
26
climb2core said on November 26th, 2013
Cleaning good steel drop ins off the chains is retarded IMO. They are no different than putting on steel quick links, except that it does increase the convenience factor. Better use of your time pulling the aluminum mank as you encounter it.
27
anticlmber said on November 26th, 2013
the problem with steel is nobody second guesses it or realizes its steel and then everything starts getting any kind of shit at the anchors. worse, people just TR through it since it's there and then you have worn shit that has to be inspected, yanked, replaced. when did cleaning become such a chore or too difficult?? if it is then may i suggest a different hobby
28
Anonymous said on November 26th, 2013
Chain, rings, and quicklinks wear out too. At least biners are easy to remove when necessary. Taking down good biners because you disagree with them philosophically is kind of a dick move.
29
Anonymous said on November 26th, 2013
I think that at a mid 11, top roping shouldn't be an issue. If you take off the steel biners just because you have some philosophical issue with people not having to tie in to clean, then at least put up a couple of beefy quick links to replace the steel you just took off the route. Or, when the chain starts to wear, then I am sure you will be equally excited to come back and fix it then.
30
Anonymous said on November 26th, 2013
Last comment was me. Ian
31
Cromper said on November 27th, 2013
God the red sucks...
32
Willy said on November 27th, 2013
These must be the same "purists" I saw trying to clean Twinkie on rappel last year
33
whoneedsfeet said on November 27th, 2013
Twats?
34
ray said on November 28th, 2013
Wow no steel biners allowed on chains now? Man I'm glad you don't climb where I do.
35
tradotto said on November 28th, 2013
I'ma put steel biners up there every time I out that way from now on.
36
Anonymous said on November 28th, 2013
Wasn't steel up there when it was pulled. Just shite aluminum. And yes, the red does suck. Tell your friends
37
climb2core said on May 17th, 2014
Solid for the grade and very fun. Surprisingly pumpy for only a few bolts of steepness. No need for any cleaning biner on this. Very easy to retrieve the first from the second and then stem up a bit to lessen the clean swing. Pretty sure there were 2 quicklinks now at the chains.
38
eduard said on November 12th, 2018
Saw an experienced climber fall 2-3 bolts from the top and hit the Wonkaholic ledge, injuring ankle. Falls on this route are not very safe.
39
Catawaba said on February 18th, 2019
Steel biners at the top was really appreciated, caught my partner falling at almost every bolt after the start and she never came close to the ledge
40
Anonymous said on June 5th, 2019
Felt really hard for 11b in modestly humid conditions. lots of holds to choose from, and only one of them is marginally better than the others. quality route though, and I found all of the falls to be quite clean once you hit the steep.