COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.
As of August 31st, there was no rope hanging on this route anymore, and no red tag, so we got on it. There are 6 bolts, not 4, and I would call it low-12.
Wow, why did I wait so long to try this? Its the most fun route on this wall, I think. Feels as friendly as Mercy the Huff. Love the jugs and the sustained nature of this thing.
The fence at the Base of these climbs is dangerous to climbers and also makes cleaning and belaying difficult. The fence needs to be lowered and made into a bench or something.
The "fence" near the base of this route is completely fine and safe, no idea what anon is talking about - you'd need to try really hard to hit it somehow.
I found what appears to be skin and a little bit of meat, and some leg hair on the top of 3 of the posts. I'm guessing it's the meat and leg hair of an experienced climber.
Fuck the staircases behind these routes. They are dangerous and completely ridiculous. Rip it all out except for one staircase and cut your loses before another person gets t-boned in the ass.
I'm definitely in favor of the staircases. Rip em out and that entire hill will be completely eroded within 10 years. People won't just use the one that you propose to leave - they'll just walk up the hill wherever they'd like. With multiple, at least we have a chance of preservation.
This is a good intentions gone wrong. I am down for re-doing the stairs this spring. I looked at it and there is potential for a much cleaner, more aesthetic solution that will prevent the erosion and be safer. I'll see if I can put together a crew and get it done this spring after talking to Curtis and Audrey
No disrespect intended to the RRGCC, but if those posts are anywhere near the landing zone they need to come out. Hitting that fence could change a fall from bruises / broken bones to being paralyzed for life. Saying that you will only hit them with a bad belay is no excuse - you don't put a metal spike in the middle of your car's steering wheel and justify it by saying it will only maim bad drivers.
I don't think the fence is in the way. I am assuming there are multiple staircases so each of the routes lower onto one of them and prevent erosion. Keep all the stairs and I guess lower the fence if needed. Also, if you are going to anonymously complain about the fence, maybe you should do something about it. Go to a trail day, and help build it.
Good intentions, but this has got to be one of the biggest eyesores in the PMRP. Take down the fences, leave the stairs until the wood rots and cut the losses.
Mimic the base of The Shire with a couple tiered landings, erosion problem solved. Sure it’s a little hard work, but it will look and work better than what’s there now. It’s a shame this was one couples idea and no other ideas were considered.
The long perma draws that were on the anchor are no longer there. The anchor bolts are about 24" apart and each hanger has a single quick link on it. It would be good to get some long chains on the anchor.
The old perma placement was jacked, but so is removing them without putting in a replacement. Sounds like now someone at the top with only 2 standards QDs has to set up a death triangle.
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Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).
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