Icebreaker

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Cat's Demise


9.
+0
0 votes

Eternal Fire 5.13c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Andrew Gearing in 2011
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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50 feet right of Shootin' Hot Hugs is a gorgeous orange wall hosting two well sought after difficult lines. This is the line on the left. Pull a difficult crimp problem or dyno past it as the FA did to reach stellar and difficult climbing on the face above.
Moves: Slopey
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

5 stars (5 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13c (7 votes)

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Comments

1
JR said on February 22nd, 2011
Great looking line. Nice work Andrew G!!! Is it possible to skip the opening "nerd gate" by coming in from the right? Is the 13c all in the first boulder problem? What does the rest of this beauty go at?
2
allen said on February 24th, 2011
He told me 13c withOUT dyno. Dyno moves it from c->d. Sandbagger?
3
Anonymous said on February 25th, 2011
sounds like the dyno must be v10 if this route is graded by its hardest move.
4
allen said on March 2nd, 2011
probably is
5
JR said on November 14th, 2011
Was the opening boulder problem chipped for the send????
6
dustonian said on November 14th, 2011
more importantly, what the hell is a "nerd gate"?
7
kafish2 said on April 22nd, 2012
Of note is that there is a static way to do the bottom part. Still the toughest moves on the route, but no dyno needed for those who are not into that sort of thing. It involves some really small crimps a just right of the bolt line.
8
512OW said on August 19th, 2012
When kafish says "just right of the bolt line", he means about 10" right of the bolt line. Definitely not contrived. Around 13b after the first bolt, and some of the best climbing in the RRG. So good.
9
pumpout2004 said on October 1st, 2012
Truly spectacular climbing on sculpted features. The bottom "nerd gate" is annoying and difficult without good temps, but worth it for the sloper/pinch pulling above.
10
512OW said on October 10th, 2012
Easy to link into this route from Cats Demise if you wish to skip the intro boulder. Stickclipping the first two bolts keeps it safe, and the traverse is only 2 moves to meet up just above the first bolt. Makes it an awfully good 13b that way. Doesn't deserve its own spot in the book, but I vote we call it "Pussy on Fire".
11
Anonymous said on October 15th, 2012
i'd take points for that.
12
SCIN said on November 9th, 2012
Dropped to 5.13c
13
Lateralus said on November 27th, 2012
Actually Andrew (FAist) didn't do the work , Troy Davison equipped.