Picador

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Arsenal

Bullfighter


5.
+0
0 votes

Flesh Wound 5.12a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Jimmy Farrell in 2011
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begin on Picador but veer right after the fourth bolt up into and over the roof.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.4 stars (5 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (7 votes)

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Comments

1
dustonian said on June 29th, 2011
wear a helmet on this one if you suck at huge (but easy) throws and/or falling feet first. one of the most exciting finishes to any route I've done. there is a permadraw on the 8th bolt to facilitate cleaning.
2
heavyc said on July 2nd, 2011
does this end on the same anchors as Picador or does it go up higher?
3
heavyc said on July 2nd, 2011
never mind I now see it is 25 feet longer than Picador
4
lena_chita said on May 7th, 2012
I thought the same thing, that this was the right-side variation finishing on the same anchors as Picador. Didn't see the glue-in at the roof until I was at the 8th bolt. Tunnel vision, I guess-- the roof bolt is clearly visible from the ground, if you are looking for it. Unfortunately, it was raining, at the face after the roof was a waterfall, so I bailed back to the anchors on Picador. Makes for a really fun ~5.11d, I think. Reading the description now, I might not be so eager to go back and try that throw move. :)
5
dustonian said on August 2nd, 2012
folks are doing it statically now with the tweaker hold in the roof... less exciting but easier perhaps
6
pumpout2004 said on April 22nd, 2013
Nice route Dustin. Didn't realize I was going to have to "top-out" so that was a nice surprise. Used some little sharp hold to go over the roof at the top.
7
craig.smith1 said on December 31st, 2015
Lower to the anchor on the left, untie, pull rope and clean it from the left anchor to keep your rope from getting chewed up. The filthy mantle at the top is pretty cool and terrible all at once.
8
DrRockso said on May 27th, 2017
Fun stuff, similar to the ending on Reload. The throw move didn't seem too hard, found the moves getting over the bulge much harder. A little scary when the feet are wet through the crux!