COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Grand Illusion

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Muscle Beach

Mental Mantle


18.
+0
0 votes

Bloody Fingers 5.8 (Trad) **

First Ascent: Steve Faulkner, Dave Schoonerover in 1982
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Walk 100 feet right of Grand Illusion past a couple of corners. Scramble to the top of some boulders and up a short slab to the base of this dihedral. Climb slightly friable rock to some slings at a ledge.
Moves: Fingers
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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3 stars (7 votes)
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5.8 (4 votes)

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Comments

1
Anonymous said on October 22nd, 2007
Yellow Jacket nest near the top. We bailed on a couple of old pieces that needed to be retired anyways. Saw someone elses bail nut a little higher up, but the bees wouldn't let us get that far up. Too bad. Seemed like a great climb.
2
dirtdog said on November 3rd, 2008
After taking a look at this climb, it was a must do. the slab section on the bottom just calls you... Didn't have any trouble with bees (sunny+65) and we passed a chock-knotted piece of webbing for fixed gear.
3
pawilkes said on June 8th, 2009
a decent anchor would do wonders for this climb. the anchor is a slung 8" plate backed up w/ knotted slings about 6 feet lower.