The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Crossroads

Love Potion #9


1.
+1
1 votes

N4 5.10c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jeff Neal, Theresa Neal in 2011
Length: 40ft
Bolts: 3 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
After taking the wooden steps up to the left towards Cannibus Love Generator, the trail splits just past a large tree. This and the next two routes can be found on an outcropping to the left. It's not often when lines this short can be so much fun but this one pulled it off. 40 feet of fun with a nice solid crux at the third.
Moves: Bouldery
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

2.51 stars (43 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (43 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: Jeff
Date: Sep 17th, 2012

Comments

1
CLIMBTRAD said on November 2nd, 2011
great little route undercling to undercling its a big ride if ya blow it going for the anchors
2
Jeff said on November 6th, 2011
Added 2 QL's per anchor. You can clip from a little lower and it might help when pulling rope, but do yourself a favor even if you clip low, and grab the big mouse-ear up and left at the chains.
3
Jeff said on November 6th, 2011
And more like 35ft.
4
michaelarmand said on December 16th, 2011
Exciting crux, harder than 10c.
5
Saxman said on March 20th, 2012
10c. HAHAHAHA Jeff has been hanging with Kipp too much.
6
Jeff said on March 20th, 2012
Lol. Did ya use the underclings Bram?
7
Saxman said on March 21st, 2012
Used one. Saw the second on the way down. Tried using it. Made it easier but still not 10c. Fun route.
8
pigsteak said on March 21st, 2012
jeff, does this mean we should downrate it to 9+?
9
Jeff said on March 22nd, 2012
Sounds about right Kipp.
10
Bootney Farnsworth said on May 13th, 2012
Great route Jeff! Pretty stout but really fun. Love this one!
11
Jeff said on May 14th, 2012
Great job Bootney!
12
chriss said on November 23rd, 2012
Did some holds break? Quite the crux section for a 10c ... not the warmup I was looking for. Fun route.
13
climb2core said on April 15th, 2013
Hard 10, sequential and bouldery. Meaning, climb it to tick it off... But not to warm up and not to repeat.
14
anticlmber said on May 4th, 2013
super cool moves on this route.
15
Brentucky said on April 1st, 2014
Jeff, you have truly stepped up your sandbagging, spicy game. Tough little route for a 5.10; glad I was already warmed up when I got on it or I might have just gone back home.
16
Jeff said on April 2nd, 2014
Spicey? Yeah. It felt 10c to me when I sent 2nd go. Always debated adding another bolt up top but never did. Hopefully the online guide will end up with a truer grade and hope it's been mentioned if at your limit, make sure you have confidence in your belay. The hard move near the top is a safe fall and after the hard moves is jugular. Glad you liked :)
17
Anonymous said on April 2nd, 2014
Did it a week or two ago and felt about 10c to me.... Its one hard move and the rest is pretty easy ten climbing, it is a bit run out to the anchors but its also probably the easiest climbing on the route.