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Fiat Lux

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Bright Side

Blowin' Loadz


15.
+1
1 votes

Skywalker 5.13b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Thomas Cunningham in 2011
Length: 95ft
Bolts: 12 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begin left of Fiat Lux with a difficult boulder problem (V6 or V7) to reach a long ride of 5.12+ climbing with decent rests to the top of the cliff. Equipped by Dustin Stephens.
Moves: Bouldery
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
beautiful (1) sunny (1) long (1) bouldery (1) pumpy (1) steep (1) dynamic (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.33 stars (3 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13b (6 votes)

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Submitted by: tdunca1
Date: Nov 3rd, 2011

Comments

1
dustonian said on October 20th, 2011
A nice 12a or b starting from the jug flake at the first bolt, but minimal brushing has occurred thus far. Also the anchor still needs chain and quicklinks. The opening moves are V-heinous.
2
dustonian said on October 24th, 2011
apparently "12a or b" was a gross understatement... my bad! it was fun to watch a good sport climber on this thing.
3
kafish2 said on October 27th, 2011
Closed project now, correct?
4
dustonian said on October 28th, 2011
Thomas C put several hours into cleaning and brushing this thing up, so it would be cool to give him a little more time on it I reckon
5
dustonian said on October 28th, 2011
btw he was very close to sending but then Boards came along
6
kafish2 said on October 29th, 2011
understandable and good luck to him on both fronts. I had heard that it may be closed for him and just wanted to make sure before I hoped on it, and figured my asking in a public forum may benefit others as well and help prevent any confusion. You know, asking a question even though the answer was already known. Thanks for both your efforts and I look forward to getting on this thing as soon as he wraps it up.
7
tdunca1 said on November 1st, 2011
Congrats to Thomas! He sent this rig yesterday evening. It has cleaned up really well, great line!
8
dustonian said on November 1st, 2011
12d with a V7-8 crux, ouch!! nice work Tdog!
9
Thomas8696 said on November 1st, 2011
Has cleaned up very nice- I'd say v6 to 12c with overall grade somewhere around 12+. Harder than the one to the left. This route starts with a very unique boulder problem to the big flake. Then sustained 12 ish climbing with good rests. Goes all the way to the top- great bolt placement Dustin
10
tbwilsonky said on November 3rd, 2011
v6 to 12c = 5.15. trust me. i own a computer.
11
dustonian said on February 16th, 2012
One of the bigger holds broke in the intro crux, but word is it still goes. I imagine it's significantly harder now.
12
dustonian said on May 1st, 2012
It's about 12c or d if you tram to the big jug above the first bolt