Skywalker

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Bright Side

Better Eat Yo' Wheatleys


16.
+0
0 votes

Blowin' Loadz 5.12d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Frank Byron in 2012
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 0 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Left of Skywalker. Big pockets separated by tough boulder problems. It's good but save the loadz blowin' for later. Equipped by Dustin Stephens
Moves: Bouldery
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
juggy (1) sunny (1) bouldery (1) pumpy (1) classic (1) steep (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.16 stars (19 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12d (24 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: whoneedsfeet
Date: Aug 16th, 2019

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Mar 24th, 2015

Submitted by: ray
Date: Aug 22nd, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 20th, 2011

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 20th, 2011

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 20th, 2011

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Oct 20th, 2011

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Oct 20th, 2011

Submitted by: dustonian
Date: Oct 20th, 2011

Comments

1
dustonian said on October 20th, 2011
Big props to Max Pazirandeh (pictured) for helping clean this thing up and for falling from the final move last spring too many times
2
dustonian said on October 20th, 2011
...and also to Frank for making it look like 5.10. I suck!!
3
pumpout2004 said on October 24th, 2011
Great route! Cool boulder problems culminating into an exciting showdown at the end. Thanks Dustin and Frank. Could be 12d, hard to say. -Dave L
4
dustonian said on October 24th, 2011
told you Frank
5
kafish2 said on November 6th, 2011
12c seems right to me. it has a similar punch at the top to tuna town but with a whole lote less leading up to it. Very cool route and will be so much better with traffic.
6
dan4geng said on November 16th, 2011
Seemed on par with the undertow 12ds especially when you link to the top.
7
dustonian said on December 18th, 2011
named for the obscene noises Max and I were forced to make on the upper crux, and the obscene noises folks at the Dark Side would make back
8
Anonymous said on December 26th, 2011
on par with undertow 12d's should put it right about 12c. psyched to get on this wall this winter!
9
Cromper said on May 12th, 2012
Very memorable boulder problem down low. This guy is still a bit crispy but should no doubt be excellent within a year.
10
shadow.ayala said on February 8th, 2013
sick route!!!
11
chriss said on April 1st, 2013
What an awesome finish. Must do route!
12
zdordai said on March 16th, 2014
one of the best routes I've been on in the gorge. perfectly bolted and cleaning up nicely...get on it with a brush! the upper pockets develop some mank when the drainage running over better eat your wheatleys is dripping consistently. the top is a very bad place to find out that the holds are wet...
13
Anonymous said on March 17th, 2014
I was on this yesterday. There were only 2 wet holds. 1 was a jug in the middle of the route... but only the left side was wet, the right side was dry and you could easily match both hands on that side. The other was a pocket near the last bolt, but you could easily avoid this hold and use a totally dry one that was just a few inches away. Otherwise, it was bone dry. None of the crux holds were wet at all. Wetness wasn't keeping anyone from sending this yesterday... myself included.
14
dustonian said on December 23rd, 2015
Most recent photo is Bush League
15
Raiden said on December 25th, 2015
Yea and that guy looks WEAK
16
dustonian said on December 26th, 2015
Yeah no kidding... is that Hoctor?
17
Raiden said on December 26th, 2015
Lol it's me; Hoctorballz doesn't know how to use his feet let alone drop knee.
18
Anonymous said on December 26th, 2015
I'll drop knee right into your dumb little face.... Merry xmas.