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Better Eat Yo' Wheatleys

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Bright Side


1 votes

Bush League 5.12c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Scott Curran, Dustin Stephens in 2012
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Left of Blowin' is the last line in the large amphitheater at the time and marked by an arete feature near the middle. Boulder the start then jug-swim up to the chains passing some decent rests which hopefully give you the juice needed for the end. Avoid the sand & choss in the upper hueco by hand-heel traversing right along the rail to clip the last bolt.

Route Spray
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Quality Consensus

4.31 stars (29 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12c (29 votes)

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Submitted by: Episketch
Date: Dec 30th, 2015

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Jun 24th, 2015

Submitted by: ray
Date: Aug 20th, 2012

Submitted by: dustonian
Date: Jul 30th, 2012


dustonian said on May 9th, 2012
Stellar steep-ass climbing! A bit stout for 12b but still a notch easier than Blowin' Loadz, which is a bit stout for 12c. Thanks to Scott for the help cleaning up and working this rig!
DWH said on July 13th, 2012
Such a rad route! A boulder problem at the start (that will undoubtedly clean up) leads to some amazing quality stone peppered with pockets and crimps. Save some for the strength sapping pockets up top. Stout 12b.
dustonian said on September 2nd, 2012
Cleaning up nicely and super fun! At the top hueco, it is much better for all concerned to traverse right along the rail on heel and calf-hooks to clip the last bolt--the hueco is way chossy up and it hasn't been cleaned much due to the steepness. The climbing out right is easy and resty anyway, the route is pretty much in the bag at that point.
climb2core said on October 15th, 2012
This is a great climb. I know it was called 12b originally, but man this thing seemed solid for the 12c grade. Granted I am nursing an injury that makes 1 pad pocket pulling problematic right now. Got on Mosaic the next day and it felt like 11d compared to this thing. Regardless, stellar line and way fun.
dustonian said on October 15th, 2012
You are also kind of a pussbag ;)
climb2core said on October 15th, 2012
I like to think of myself as just more of "whiny weaksauce" than a "pussbag".
Power2U said on October 22nd, 2012
Great climb,,, cleaning up slowly. "jug-swim" in the description above needs to be removed, unless you consider 1 & 2 pad crimps and pockets up high on this thing at a 45 degree angle "jug-swimming" ;-) Cool hard first three bolts too. Hard to imagine this thing being a 12b... anyhow it's waaaay steep and fun!
neeko said on November 2nd, 2012
Good route and perfectly bolted. I think we can build a fence if any idiot try to climb inside the chossy-hueco ;-)
chriss said on April 1st, 2013
High quality jug swimming. Very highly recommended.
Ryanwsu4 said on November 12th, 2018
On Saturday 11/10/2018 I left a bunch of Petzl Quickdraws and a grigri at the crag. They have 2 pieces of tape on them and I can tell you what color they are. If you have them Please let me know. The group has more than $250 of gear together. If you have it please let me know. Message me, or PLEASE text me. My name is Ryan and my number is 937-903-6446. Please Call or text
AidClimber said on November 19th, 2020
The hueco is very clean now. It is right in the bolt line and based on the chalk the vast majority of people are using it. I tried both ways and it felt contrived to traverse right. This is a pretty perfect route, thanks for putting it up.