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Bleak December

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Unfastidious Moth

1 votes

The Dainty Butterfly 5.12c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Troy Davison in 2011
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begin 10 feet right of Bleak December with a couple of face moves to reach a crack. Climb the crack then scoot right onto the face for a rest for a couple of moves to reach the final decent rest before the showdown. Shift left back onto the face for the second half of the route which gets more difficult with each bolt run, until the holds diminish just in time for the finish.
Moves: Crimps
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Private
crimpy (1) pumpy (1)
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Quality Consensus

3.89 stars (18 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12c (20 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Apr 29th, 2012


JR said on April 18th, 2012
Rock quality is much better than it's neighbor. But WFT is up with the last bolt to the anchors!! Did all that lichen grow back in one year or did it never get cleaned. Sure way for people to not onsight your route. Leave the crux holds hidden in moss. Awesome! Needs some work. Could be a gem with some love.
Anonymous said on April 27th, 2012
ray said on April 29th, 2012
Damn what a great line! Solid crimps, tough moves, and a crux with the anchors in your face. One of my favorite new lines.
Rob Smith said on June 12th, 2012
Have tried this 3 times now. I think it is at least 12c. Probably 12b to the last bolt with the crux going to the anchors making it at least 12c. Amazing line. Bleak December is also really good.
One-Fall said on November 7th, 2012
In the same vein as Heart Shaped Box and Alice Through the Windshield Glass.
mikeet said on September 17th, 2013
I removed the two worn aluminum biners that were on the anchors of this, if they are yours i will give them to you. just pm me
Cromper said on March 26th, 2016
What a fun rock climb! Love the teeny tiny crimps up top.
craig.smith1 said on April 18th, 2016
Good route but the top is filthy. Could use a broom from the last bolt to the anchor. I think the one left is similar difficulty, but better rock quality all the way to the end.
Anonamoose said on November 26th, 2017
Great route! Not too bad til a final bit of smaller crimps that are harder to find. This anchor is currently just two single quicklinks on the hangers and severely kinks ropes, it needs some help!