Kaleidoscope

This route is located in the Southern Region at Drive-By Crag

The Sharma Project


28a.
+0
0 votes

Thug Life 5.13d (Sport)

First Ascent: Kevin Wilkinson in 2011
Length: 0ft
Bolts: 0 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Next route right of Kaleidoscope out the steep cave.
Moves: unknown
Descent: unknown
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.25 stars (4 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.0 ( votes)

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Comments

1
Dmack said on November 14th, 2011
Rumor has it this thing was chipped and glued a ton!!!Anyone been on it?
2
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2011
I think it's called thug life.
3
Anonymous said on May 22nd, 2012
yes its glued. its fun still though
4
Anonymous said on May 10th, 2013
13c climbing on permenately wet holds. Surprisingly good for how blatently chipped it is.
5
pigsteak said on May 11th, 2013
are the chipped holds so big they are watering holes;)
6
dustonian said on May 11th, 2013
This route is strange to me. While there are no "explicit" rules against manufacturing holds in the PMRP, there are such rules elsewhere in the Red, and honestly it seems odd that our community would accept these tactics, especially at a world-class crag like Drive By in a place with no shortage of amazing 100% natural routes.
7
Anonymous said on May 11th, 2013
I agree, Dustin.
8
Willy said on May 11th, 2013
Its acceptable because its rock climbing and it doesn't matter one bit. If this thing wasn't chipped there would still be wars in the middle east and starving children in ethiopia. If you want to be a snob and only climb rock that is "all natural" you can still do that. Others will climb it, have fun, and be happy that the bolts and holds are there.
9
Spikeddem said on May 11th, 2013
94% of 8a.nu poll respondents disagrees with you willy.
10
Anonymous said on May 11th, 2013
Dann you're a dumb ass Willy
11
Anonymous said on May 11th, 2013
that cock sucker wilkenson hasn't been banned or beaten suprises me. that he practices an outdated tactic all for fame doesn't suprise me. keep thinking its ok. war, rape, and other things are as well. just keep telling yourself none of it matters. dumb shit - jr
12
Willy said on May 11th, 2013
No you're fucking stupid anonymous if you think rock climbing is anything other than a recreational pursuit that nobody, other than those involved with it, give any shits about. Sack up and login next time you want to be douche. JR – I stated chipping doesn't matter in contrast to things that DO matter like war and starving children. Yes its outdated, yes its not good practice in our little elitist outcast world but its not like its a regular thing at the Red and its definitely not worth being pissed about and beating (seriously?) someone over. Change your tampon, quit bitching about a route you’re not strong enough to touch, and let those who are have fun on it.
13
Spikeddem said on May 11th, 2013
I'm going to chip every past and future Willy route to 5.8. I'm sure nobody will care cuz we're all off ending wars and feeding children.
14
Anonymous said on May 11th, 2013
I bet Willy sticks foreign objects in his asshole for fun.
15
Willy said on May 11th, 2013
This has gotten way off track. The point i attempted to make was that it seems like a number people have been getting on Thug Life, most have said it was fun regardless of the manufacturing, and Ray even gave it four stars in the new guidebook so it must not be all that bad. Its annoying that people who are too weak to be trying the route haven't quit bitching about the fact that its chipped and are ruining it for others who might enjoy it. My question is would the proper thing for Kevin to have done here be to bolt this and leave it as a 5.15 project that only freakish wizard Ondra types could enjoy, or should it have not been bolted it at all?
16
stix said on May 12th, 2013
shut the fuck up willy
17
Spikeddem said on May 12th, 2013
Willy, that's an incredibly easy question. Leave it as a project/unbolted. If you don't follow that logic, what's to stop you from chipping a 13 to make it a more manageable 12? Look at how many projects around here get equipped but not sent by the equipper!
18
pigsteak said on May 12th, 2013
nothing wrong with bolting a route and leaving for a strong suitor to come and send....there needs to be a bit of vision for the next generation.
19
climb2core said on May 12th, 2013
Pigsteak, you would have been a visionary back in 1970 by bolting your typical give away 12+ or 13- for the next generation. ;)
20
Anonymous said on May 12th, 2013
Kipp...Dustin..any thoughts on what "should happen" since this is unacceptable?? Words to Kevin? Remove the bolts? I think something has to be done so that people dont think that it is "ok". Dmack
21
Anonymous said on May 12th, 2013
Chipping something to make it easier is different imo than chipping something to make it possible. Kevin W. is an elite level climber and has bolted a lot of high end sport climbs. I'd like to think he knows the difference between a futuristic route and one that will never be finished because its simply not possible. Did he not bolt lines on the right side of Chocolate Factory that were left as projects?
22
anticlmber said on May 12th, 2013
willy, i'll change it when you quite flossing your teeth with the string. been coming here for 20 years and have seen the decline in people giving a shit about my backyard. chipping has no place. to say its acceptable this time means it becomes acceptable all the time. i go to cliffs with more and more garbage, bushwack trails, etc. i'm the asshole because i believe the natural beauty is being raped. to say that the 1% that may get on this route decides the ethic is BS. to say i don't matter since i don't climb X Y or Z is about the gayest shit ever. throw garbage on the ground or deface a route in front of me and see where it goes. i stand up for my home area. sorry if you don't. maybe you're part of the problem.
23
Corona said on October 30th, 2013
Would be fun if one third of the holds on it weren't permanently drenched.
24
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2013
It's rock climbing, the point is to have fun not bitch about hold that are manufactured. My bet is that nobody on here would have even known the holds are glued are chipped unless someone else who climbed it would have....so dont go on a long rant about "raping" your home crag, want to climb only pure lines that aren't "raping" your crag? then remove all those perma-draws you love......is chipping a route cool? hell no. Should you threaten to beat people up over it? absolutely not, grow the fck up. My point is climbing is meant to be fun, whether it's inside, outside, with friends or with strangers.... 95% of sport climbing is hanging out in the woods with cool people so quite your bitchin about chipped holds and go climb some route that will make you enjoy the pure badassery that is the RRG...rant over
25
Anonymous said on November 19th, 2013
Willy, Your comparisons to war and hunger miss the boat. The reason that it matters is because real rock is a limited resource for climbers, so one person going against an excepted ethic not only practices bad form, but also permanently defaces a potentially awesome route for stronger generation of climbers. The rock is a shared resource. It's not the private domain of one climber with a chisel.
26
Anonymous said on November 19th, 2013
BRB gotta go chip my way up The Nose. Ill make sure to glue some nice jugs up there too for you guys. When I am done with it, the Nose will be about 5.5.
27
dustonian said on November 19th, 2013
The Nose is already chipped, you should hit up the Salathe or the NW face of Half Dome instead.
28
NorwegianJoe said on September 22nd, 2014
Where can I see how many people sent this route?
29
Anonymous said on September 22nd, 2014
8a is a decent resource for a general idea of number of ascents. You can also click "show spray" above for the number of ascents on this particular site. With all that being said…the number of ascents is undoubtedly larger, as a large portion of climbers don't log ascents.
30
MurphMan said on October 17th, 2014
Why is it that the better a climber is, the more of an asshole they are? I used to think climbers were the nicest folks on the planet, until I started reading the comments on routes that are 5.12 and up. Debating about chipping is one thing, but this kind of hostile conversation has no place in this wonderful sport.
31
Anonymous said on October 18th, 2014
it's the internets, bro. not climbing.
32
kafish2 said on October 18th, 2014
Let's be fair here... It isn't strong climbers, but Internet climbing personalities that are the issue. After all, most of the commentary (at least least the non-anonymous ones) have never been on on this route or if they did would be shut down pretty quick. Fact is, most of the people know that have tried this route enjoyed it despite the chipping. On the other hand, how fun is this website without a little bit of stirring up some shit?
33
Next Level said on October 19th, 2014
I wonder if this "Kevin" even tried the moves before he chipped it... I skipped most of the chipped "holds" by executing some longish "figure fours" off of the glued "jugs."
34
ddchil01 said on July 14th, 2017
is this route open to climb? and is it safe lol
35
Anonymous said on July 14th, 2017
ddchill you have no business on this route. It is certainly not safe for you.
36
ddchil01 said on August 3rd, 2017
Just asking since I know it's glued. I am no where near ready for a 13c/d but would love to tackle it one day. BTW, Anonymous you didn't answer my question at all!
37
Anonymous said on August 4th, 2017
Of course it's safe dumb ass. It has seen many ascents. There are plenty of routes that are chipped/glued that are safe.
38
ddchil01 said on August 4th, 2017
LMAO! Well at least I got an answer that time, I do appreciate that at least
39
Anonymous said on June 5th, 2018
I came here for beta on the roof but only because I forgot The Internet