Texas Eagle

This route is located in the Upper Gorge Region at Moonshiner's Wall

The Right Wall is Out!


6a.
+0
0 votes

Sunset Limited 5.10b (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Unknown
Length: 60ft
Gear: .75 - 3 Camalot (report bad anchors)

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Climb the finger/ hand crack about 15 ft right of Texas Eagle. Pull an overhang off a fist jam to get off the ground. Ascend the crack and trend left in the endgame to attain the ledge. Build an anchor with a #0.75 BD, (smaller cams), and small nuts.
Option 1: Rap from a large chock stone 160 feet to the left and around the corner. Fixed gear. Option 2: Rap from an evergreen tree visible from the ledge, bring webbing.
Moves: fingers/hands
Descent: Rappel
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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3 stars (1 votes)
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5.10b (1 votes)

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Submitted by: caribe
Date: Nov 28th, 2011

Comments

1
caribe said on November 28th, 2011
The bottom protects well, so the first hard moves are just plain fun.
2
pigsteak said on November 28th, 2011
you just might be the second ascent of this route.
3
Anonymous said on November 30th, 2011
Whats the sun like at this route/wall?
4
caribe said on November 30th, 2011
TE and SL and some of the left portion of the wall get morning sun. As the sun progresses to the west Oberon (which faces east) lights up more.
5
caribe said on November 30th, 2011
Oberon faces West.
6
brhe224 said on June 29th, 2013
careful! Small footchips and other holds on the face may break! Also, bring a brush for the upper section to brush off lichen