Supafly

This route is located in the Southern Region at Solar Collector and Gold Coast

Yakuza


10a.
+0
0 votes

Space Junk 5.12c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Jonathan Siegrist in 2011
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Next route to the right of Supafly, the last on the right. Begin on Supafly and climb to the rest, from where you bust out right through solid crimps and big moves to a "rest". Tell yourself you have done the crux, then proceed to the crux pulling off some cool moves on bad holds. Get the last bolt clipped and it's smooth sailing from there.
Moves: Pockets and crimps
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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3.86 stars (14 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12c (14 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 29th, 2013

Submitted by: dustonian
Date: Mar 23rd, 2012

Comments

1
dustonian said on December 5th, 2011
Good route. Actually 7 bolts... 6th clip is burly. Scraggly tree needs to go, with a lighter belayer it's very easy to hit.
2
JR said on December 15th, 2011
Great addition to Solar Collector. So nice!!!
3
Yasmeen said on December 27th, 2011
Glad this one got bolted - really fun stacked boulder problems!
4
aburgoon said on January 30th, 2012
Good climbing, still a bit crunchy. Keep you heads up on the belay.
5
kafish2 said on September 10th, 2012
Pretty rad and unlike anything else on the wall. Might be my new fav on the wall.
6
neeko said on March 11th, 2013
I left a (very) long draw on this one yesterday, which can avoid a bad fall into the hueco or in the ledge.
7
climb2core said on March 11th, 2013
Neeko, I haven't been on the route. Is this a problem that could be fixed with moving a bolt? If it is, we could see if J-Star would be cool with that. If not, and a long draw is the answer, we could get a steel PD on it with a long cable. Can you be more specific? Anyone else felt this was a problem? Hopefully we can get away from leaving up aluminum to act as fixed gear this year. Thanks.
8
Anonymous said on March 11th, 2013
Jesus...saw that coming
9
climb2core said on March 12th, 2013
Diddo.
10
Anonymous said on March 12th, 2013
or you could just add quicklink and chain
11
climb2core said on March 12th, 2013
Good idea Dustin
12
dustonian said on March 12th, 2013
Don't bring me into this, douchetard
13
Anonymous said on March 12th, 2013
Super safe Ian to the rescue! Maybe he will actually do something about it besides beIng a talking head.
14
climb2core said on March 12th, 2013
Probably wont have to do anything. Draw will most likely be gone with before spring break is over. However, anyone have intelligent comments regarding what Neeko said about the bolt placement?
15
super safe ian said on March 12th, 2013
I am kind of like the George W. Bush of this board. I like to pretend I have authority and call shots but really I'm just an idiot.
16
neeko said on March 12th, 2013
I simply wanted to protect my next goes from other injuries. I will remove the draw next week-end. I'm probably not strong enough to clip in the middle of the crux, but I love this route. I will try to see if a better bolt placement could help.
17
dustonian said on March 12th, 2013
A good high left foot/heel makes that clip barely doable... no doubt that it is a sketchy moment on this otherwise very good route.
18
climb2core said on March 13th, 2013
Cool, thx for clarifying Neeko. Hope your draw is still there.
19
Meadows said on March 13th, 2013
Unclipping the first could help with the issue, along with the long draw above hueco. We flight tested Yasmeen with this strategy a few times, and it seemed to work.
20
neeko said on September 16th, 2013
no more sketchy draw on this one. BYODraws
21
brayackmedia said on November 27th, 2013
I put a really long sling on that bolt - a full trad draw extended with another draw on it and could clip, then clipped up from the stance. No really much you can do about the bolt placement I think because if you move the bolt down, then going to the next bolt is dangerous. A long perma-draw may be nice though. Awesome route!
22
halg said on April 27th, 2016
Always wanted to do this one. Pretty fun. Also, the fall at the crux is clean yet spicy!