Junior's Gesture

This route is located in the Southern Region at Drive-By Crag

Amyloid Plaque Sport


40.
+0
0 votes

Murder at Frozen Head 5.11b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jeff Neal in 2011
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begin on a flat boulder. Climb the face to reach a no hands rest on a ledge. Tiptoe off the ledge onto the face then back onto the ledge several times until your belayer seems irritated then commit to anything you can grab to make the leg shaking clip. If you make it to the 4th you got it in the bag.
Moves: Slab
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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3 stars (4 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (5 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Aug 22nd, 2012

Submitted by: Jeff
Date: Dec 7th, 2011

Comments

1
pigsteak said on December 9th, 2011
if this thing has been washed clean, it will be a much respect onsight....very fine line jeff....very fine.
2
dustonian said on February 10th, 2013
Indeed, Symon demonstrated this to be true today... hard 11c imo. 4th clip is kind of a horror show.
3
pigsteak said on February 10th, 2013
you mean...dont fall or you die type of horror show;)
4
Jeff said on March 22nd, 2013
You must be doing it wrong.
5
dustonian said on March 22nd, 2013
Or perhaps something broke.... just crux moves well above the bolt with a somewhat slabby landing below. Not groundfall or anything, just nice 'n spicy!
6
Jeff said on March 22nd, 2013
:) I just read the route description and look at Rays pic with the red line. I was way right by the time I went from 3 to 4 and there was a very key left foot jib. No way I could send following the red line!
7
dustonian said on March 22nd, 2013
Hm... perhaps I missed the "jib", this thing felt like a step up from Giblets! I was really happy I made Symon hang a double draw after watching him sketch through it. I don't know, I always climb bad in the cold though. Super nice climbing in any case!
8
pigsteak said on March 22nd, 2013
dustin, I also remember shaking in my boots on this one at 4....
9
Jeff said on March 23rd, 2013
I was shakin for sure there too. In my route description I mentioned meeting Elvis around 4.