Sam I Am

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Dip Wall

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4.
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0 votes

Logic and Proportion 5.10a (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Tom Souders, Jon Dinsmore in 1991
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Look for the plated face 40 feet left of Sam I Am. Climb the face making use of natural protection. Traverse right to rappel from the anchors on Sam I Am.
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.25 stars (4 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (3 votes)

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Comments

1
Huggybone said on February 7th, 2005
Chimney shown in the picture (on the left) is was done (possible FA, don't know for sure) by Peter HOgaboam and Jesse New in 2000
2
Don McGlone said on September 11th, 2006
Memorable.
3
RRO said on September 11th, 2006
for all involved
4
Myke Dronez said on May 27th, 2008
spicy
5
michaelarmand said on September 2nd, 2008
This climb is "interesting". I was able to place 2 nuts, 2 cams, and sling 4 features. I would not have wanted to fall on any of it! The climbing was pretty easy though. I won't complain about climbing a sport route with no bolts...but is it too much to ask for some anchors? You have to set up a belay at the top and then do a stupid 20 ft traverse pitch over to the sketchy rap station on Sam I Am.
6
Ascentionist said on September 6th, 2008
Is it too much to ask to expect that if you're climbing at an exclusively trad wall that you know how to use all that stuff to BUILD an anchor. Sheesh!
7
Yasmeen said on September 7th, 2008
It sounds like he did know how to build an anchor, and that he built one, but it's not like you're going to leave your gear there once you're done with the route. The issue still exists of getting back to the ground with all your gear, and his statement was that a 20 foot traverse was involved in that task.
8
JR said on September 8th, 2008
So cavalier Yasmeen. I think I can be of service here. Ascentionist you are exclusively a bonehead.
9
ahab said on September 9th, 2008
that sounds logical.
10
Ascentionist said on September 10th, 2008
Nah, sounds like you guys are all whiners.
11
Yasmeen said on September 11th, 2008
And with that statement, you've joined the ranks. Welcome!
12
Anonymous said on September 11th, 2008
"I always felt like (and still do) that most people take their hobbies too seriously, and hold too many worthless things sacred." -http://ascentionist.blogspot.com/ Next Blog Post: The Sour Taste of My Own Words
13
Ascentionist said on September 22nd, 2008
But at least I can build my own anchor. Or place new bolts if the need is there and not expect anyone else to do it for me. Convenience anchors on every freakin' route in the world are not the answer. Suck it up and go with the adventure of it.
14
Ascentionist said on September 22nd, 2008
Oh, yeah! Thanks for reading!
15
Yasmeen said on September 23rd, 2008
Well hell, since you're repeating yourself, I will, too: michaelarmand clearly wrote "You have to set up a belay at the top", which implies that he did know how to build his own anchor. Did you even read his words, or did you just see a comment about a trad route and see it as an opportunity to brag about a skill that most people who've climbed this route possess? $10 says that if michaelarmand had said "I know how to place new bolts. The need was there and I did not expect anyone else to do it for me. So, there are new bolts at the top of Logic and Proportion," you would have had something negative to say about that.
16
Ascentionist said on September 23rd, 2008
"..but is it too much to ask for some anchors?" Why are climbers so dependant on someone going before them to clean things up? If you can't hack it, don't complain, maybe climbing is not for you.
17
ahab said on September 24th, 2008
unless he was posting from the ledge, he could & did hack it. have you climbed this route? did you lower/rap from the afore mentioned sketch anchors on Sam I Am? no? go give it a whirl. dare ya.
18
512OW said on September 24th, 2008
I say that the anchors on Sam I Am are fine, the traverse is not at all scary or sketchy, trad climbing is not for you if you want to complain about anchors, and climbing is not for you if you think your way is the best way. Furthermore, all involved are boneheads. Shut up and go play badminton.
19
Myke Dronez said on September 24th, 2008
Geez fellas, methinks teh anchors are teh least of worries on this climb. Who wants to play with my shuttlecock?
20
Anonymous said on September 24th, 2008
"...climbing is not for you if you think your way is the best way." so, 99% of the people on this message board should not be climbing.
21
512OW said on September 24th, 2008
Your number is way off, but essentially, you are correct.