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Dementia

This route is located in the Southern Region at Drive-By Crag

Fleeing the Scene


43.
+0
0 votes

Sojourner Truth 5.10c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Kipp Trummel in 2011
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Race up on large plates which end abruptly at a bulge where the real climbing begins. Move up past some nice moves to a hole just before the chains. From the hole, peek out and stare at the chains for awhile while you wonder how you can reach them without falling.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.48 stars (21 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10c (22 votes)

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Submitted by: Jeff
Date: Dec 7th, 2011

Comments

1
rjackson said on December 7th, 2011
This one ain't over 'til it's over... Don't expect much at the top, as I did not find a 5.10 jug.
2
Pangea said on December 31st, 2011
Well, the "credit card" hold at the top, which was probably keeping the grade on this a little lower, is no longer there thanks to my right foot. Difficulty bumped up a notch now. Enjoy!
3
cliftongifford said on February 3rd, 2012
One of the worst routes I've been on in a while. Dirty, chossy, bad bolt placement, and the movement sucks.
4
pigsteak said on February 8th, 2012
clifton, apparently you have not climbed any of my routes at curbside.....;)
5
Yasmeen said on February 8th, 2012
Your first comment on this Curbside route is still one of my all-time favorites, Kipp: http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide/?type=route&id=2057
6
cliftongifford said on February 8th, 2012
Sorry pigsteak, I've enjoyed MANY excellent routes you've put up all over the gorge, including a few at Curbside. I just didn't enjoy this one, the bolt above the roof is a little sketchy considering the rock, but I'm also weak. Thanks for your work!
7
pigsteak said on February 9th, 2012
no worries man....I actually agree with you..it needs glueins if anything. in fact, the anchor clips are a bit contrived because the original anchors were supposed to be higher but the rock quality got even worse if you can beleive that.
8
JR said on March 15th, 2012
If this ended at the last bolt I would bump this up to 2 stars.....
9
dustonian said on June 5th, 2012
I liked this route. I took a friend from Bishop here for his first climb ever in the Red, & he really liked it too.
10
Rollo said on March 22nd, 2014
I would bump this up two stars if the anchors were up and to the left a bit on what appeared to be good rock to the layman. It would make you climb through that last bit. I liked it lots though.