2-Fold

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

The Dainty Butterfly


16.
+1
1 votes

Bleak December 5.12b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Andy Mann in 2011
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk right from Cat's Demise about 100 feet to locate six challenging crimp lines. This is line directly left of Dainty Butterfly and begins with a left arching crack. Follow the crack until it fades then move up into some difficult cranking on small edges. The ending shares some personality with the Butterfly to the right.
Moves: Crimps
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Private
Steepness:
sharp (1) crimpy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

2.94 stars (16 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (17 votes)

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Comments

1
Anonymous said on April 15th, 2012
not really as cool as advertised, was this the guys first bolting job or what, not to reassuring to see all the failed installs next to the bolt I;m clipping, like 4 of them. I sent it out of fear of falling on the bolts- enjoy and maybe have a developer show you how to do it proper.
2
JR said on April 18th, 2012
I though the bolting was fine. I broke the best hold in the lower crux. Other equally sharp options are available. 12b for sure now. The finishing moves are really cool. Really good movement. Rock quality and sharpness is the downfall.
3
Rob Smith said on May 30th, 2012
Felt more like solid 12b. First crux felt about as hard as the crux on the Pessimist, but I am kinda short. I broke a decent unnecessary crimp after the first crux. Nice technical line overall, look forward to getting back on it.
4
Brentucky said on May 30th, 2012
What are you calling the crux on The Pessimist? The ridiculous bottom moves or the top move?
5
Rob Smith said on June 7th, 2012
Did this route last weekend and still agree that 12b is appropriate. Feels a letter harder than Snozzberries at this crag. First crux is not as hard as I thought. Brentucky, I thought the hardest move on Pessimist was the single low move, although the top section is great quality moves and challenging as well.
6
Brentucky said on November 26th, 2012
This does not compare with the crux on "The Pessimist." This one barely has a crux; it is more of a sustained crimpy ride with good rests. Fun route!
7
Anonymous said on March 23rd, 2015
Thin crimping with good movement. I thought the bolting was fine. Spotted multiple broken holds though. Solid at 12b. Hang on to the chains. Joe zatek