Sandy Malone

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Bright Side

Smokin' on Kesha


20.
+0
0 votes

Chica Loca 5.11a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Nick Feiler, Andrew Wheatley, Mike Wheatley in 2012
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Downhill from the previous line is a pair of lines with a ledge at 25 feet. This is the right line which serves up a few bolts of crimp and pump to reach an intimidating finish which has more bark than bite. Currently poorly bolted so be careful if you aren't solid at the grade or you may hit a ledge.
Moves: Crimps
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.05 stars (42 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (44 votes)

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Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Jan 9th, 2016

Submitted by: dustonian
Date: Nov 18th, 2014

Submitted by: dustonian
Date: Nov 18th, 2014

Submitted by: dustonian
Date: Mar 18th, 2013

Submitted by: ray
Date: Aug 19th, 2012

Comments

1
Andrew said on January 13th, 2012
This route has incredible rock, holds, and movement... Unfortunately it has a ledge about 20 feet up that interrupts the climbing of the route. Please be aware of a fall above the ledge will probably result in hitting the ledge without a good belay. Very good despite that.
2
dustonian said on January 13th, 2012
Is the orange face near the big hemlock or further left? Does the name mean "chica loca" or something else?
3
pumpout2004 said on January 13th, 2012
Andrew is bad with last names...its Feiler. And also apparently bad at spanish.
4
Andrew said on January 13th, 2012
First... I had nothing to do with this route except I climbed it. Second... that is how Nick told me to spell it. Adios
5
Cleveland said on January 14th, 2012
Shouldn't it be Chica Loca?
6
dustonian said on March 9th, 2012
Fun route, thanks guys!! Rock is super good... but definitely not one for the fledgling 5.10 leader.
7
pigsteak said on March 17th, 2012
I found this thing quite difficult for the grade....it has been 15 years or more since a 10c took me three goes....geesh..
8
JR said on May 21st, 2012
Please do not lead this route if you aren't proficient at 5.11. It might not be a "R" rated route but I definitely think it is worth a little heads up. There are multiple opportunities to break a leg.
9
Yasmeen said on December 7th, 2012
Mike informed me that a bolt has been added. I've not been on the route, but it sounds like coming off the ledge may not be as heady now.
10
michaelarmand said on March 15th, 2013
Climbed it today and it was well protected above the ledge. Great line.
11
Spikeddem said on March 23rd, 2014
Route seems fine now with the extra bolt