Crazy Eyes

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Bright Side

Tongue-punch


2.
+0
0 votes

Scalawagarus 5.11a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Nick Feiler, Mike Wheatley in 2012
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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50 feet left of Crazy Eyes.This and the next line to the right begin with some mank but are well worth jumping on for the post-mank stellar climbing. Climb to a ledge 20 feet up then continue past big moves including a jump to the tongue for the shorties. Big moves plus big holds makes for a happy climber.
Moves: Bouldery
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.82 stars (28 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (24 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Aug 20th, 2012

Comments

1
Spikeddem said on April 7th, 2012
11b??? 11c?? What??? This thing ought to settle down around 11a I would imagine.
2
Willy said on June 20th, 2012
Fun route should clean up well. Not sure how long the giant somewhat slopey hold that sticks out will last. Will be much harder if it breaks off
3
michaelarmand said on October 22nd, 2012
Fun climb, will definitely get better as it cleans up.
4
heavyc said on November 23rd, 2012
0 star appearance but 3 star movement
5
Rollo said on November 10th, 2013
The first half of this thing will never be dry. Remember to say "ewwww, gross!" A lot while climbing it. The route does have a really cool name though.
6
Rusty said on September 28th, 2015
My buddy smooshed no less than 5 slugs hiding out in pockets on this thing. Also, left anchor has a rusted Fixe hanger. It was ok, but 10/10 would take my warm-up elsewhere
7
Episketch said on April 11th, 2016
I caught it on a dry day and was pleasantly surprised by solid rock and fun moves.
8
ninesixfour said on December 11th, 2017
This is a nice little route that climbs a lot better than it looks.