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This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Enkidu


82.
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0 votes

Gilgamesh 5.12b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Jimmy Farrell, Andrew Gearing, Dustin Stephens in 2012
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk 30 feet right from the previous lines down to a wall marked by two obvious dinosaur spine features on the upper headwall. This is the better of the two lines and begins with some tough moves to reach a ledge 25 feet up. Pull up onto the overhanging headwall for great movement on the spine which fades into a steep and difficult finish.
Moves: Tufas
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Private
Steepness:
vertical (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.4 stars (25 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (21 votes)

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Comments

1
tbwilsonky said on March 5th, 2012
looks mega-cool!
2
allah said on March 7th, 2012
Damn! I knew those routes looked bad ass! nice job on them!
3
dustonian said on March 15th, 2012
Praise mighty allah! Please have mercy, for they are not 13b.
4
Yasmeen said on June 18th, 2012
Fun and varied throughout, tough up top - great line, Dustin!
5
dustonian said on June 21st, 2012
5 stars when dry, 4 when seeping... unfortunately, it appears to seep in high humidity
6
climb2core said on September 17th, 2012
Seeping doesn't really affect the climb. Great climb with the smack down at the end. Would be tough(er) in high humidity though.
7
climb2core said on September 17th, 2012
Dustin, Did you start directly under the first bolt or traverse in from the left?
8
dustonian said on September 17th, 2012
I climbed it direct. I guess you can also traverse in from the left. The direct start is about V3 if you use the shallow 2-finger pocket, hard move but not really the crux.
9
der uber said on November 12th, 2012
Chossy dreamcatcher simulator start, super intense mantle over a jug, desperate crux up top. Good stuff.
10
chriss said on November 26th, 2012
Great climbing on unique features. What's up with the perma draws on the last bolt of these lines? Seems unnecessary.
11
dustonian said on November 26th, 2012
They'll be coming down at some point. There was a big mess of rhodos and branches behind the route in the swing-zone, but they didn't last long.
12
Anonymous said on November 13th, 2016
Anybody find a pair of La Sportivas below gilgamish please let me know 859 489 1653
13
Nate W said on March 27th, 2018
The rest holds traversing out left after that tufa-like feature just got a little smaller. Be careful on whats left. There are cracks running most of the way through the horizontal.
14
Anonymous said on March 27th, 2018
so you left some dangerous rock on the route for the next person... i bet you are a thoughts and prayers kind of douchebag aren't you?