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Gilgamesh

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

 Mr. P.

83.
+0
0 votes

Enkidu 5.11c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Jimmy Farrell, Andrew Gearing, Dustin Stephens in 2012
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Next route right of Gilgamesh. Begin with twenty feet of moderate climbing to reach a large hueco. Exit out left and up onto the overhanging gold face with a less prominent spine than Gilgamesh yet still great climbing. It's the Red so again expect a tough move going for the chains.
Moves: Tufas
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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4 stars (46 votes)
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5.11c (42 votes)

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Comments

29 comments {add your own comments}
1
Anonymous said on February 9th, 2012
nice photos
2
taurusclimber said on March 1st, 2012
Got on the route this weekend. Very fun.
3
dustonian said on March 17th, 2012
In the midst of moving the 7th bolt, so as of 3/16/2011 there are 2 bolts there. Both are good to clip so take your pick. Will be removing the lower one soon.
4
brayackmedia said on March 20th, 2012
Pretty solid 11c Dustin. Good route :)
5
JR said on April 18th, 2012
Broke the right hand sidepull/undercling that made the crux anywhere near 11b. At least 11c/d is my guess. Great route.
6
dustonian said on April 18th, 2012
hm... trying to figure out which hold you mean. Below the last bolt or above it?
7
Sarnoth said on May 22nd, 2012
I didn't notice the broken hold, the sequence through the crux is still the same for me (at 6'3").
8
Jeff said on August 26th, 2012
Highlight of the day, great route! Took 2 goes to figure out how to work that spine, but what enjoyable and rewarding climbing. Loved it!
9
climb2core said on September 17th, 2012
Superb climb and will get even better with a little more traffic. The moves around the spine are fantastic. This is the route to do if you don't have any endurance. You can get no hands about 15 ft all the way up. Thanks for putting it up Dustin!
10
krampus said on May 13th, 2013
best rout on this section of the chocolate factory.
11
lena_chita said on April 21st, 2014
The moves at the top are pretty cool! The crux felt harder than Grumpalump for me, and I will try to get someone else hang the draws in the future. I am not quite sure how I would have hung the 5th( I think ?) draw, if I didn't have a frog draw on me.
12
MartyV said on November 3rd, 2015
Really cool movement. love the tufa like feature at the top, Awesome route Dustin!
13
Anonymous said on January 16th, 2016
This one could use a little chain and a quicklink at the anchor if anyone's in the mood
14
climb2core said on January 17th, 2016
If you're there in January, odds are you're a local. Maybe you could be that guy?
15
Anonymous said on January 18th, 2016
what's wrong climb2core, can't part with any of that chain from your gimp dungeon?
16
Anonymous said on January 18th, 2016
I think Anonymous is bitter about not being invited over to play gimp
17
Anonymous said on January 20th, 2016
Pfft, this is Dustin's line. I got my own list of crap to fix up.
18
Anonymous said on January 20th, 2016
Crap is right, a grinder and some sand colored epoxy should keep you busy all winter.
19
Anonymous said on January 20th, 2016
Grinder? C2C's bolts usually fall out on their own.
20
anticlmber said on January 22nd, 2016
Haha. Zing
21
Anonymous said on January 28th, 2016
will there be any record of which routes supersafeian "fixes"? be nice to have a watch the fuck out list.
22
Anonymous said on January 28th, 2016
You obviously don't bolt, help out with rebolting or contribute your time or money for fixed gear in the Red. And this I know because those who do aren't afraid to say whatever they need to say in person. Probably a Trump fan too. #growsome
23
Chiyram said on September 12th, 2016
Damn, this thing whipped me again. Hadn't tried in a couple years and it's just as hard as I remember.
24
Anonymous said on September 13th, 2016
This would probably be 11a but we tagged 11c on it so we didn't have to hear you cry. Better luck next time you're on this coast chiyram (or maybe stay over there?)
25
Anonymous said on September 13th, 2016
God, you must have a shitty pathetic life that this is all you have to offer. And a fucking coward to boot
26
Chiyram said on September 13th, 2016
Who has time to look for comments to troll on this website? lol
27
Anonymous said on September 13th, 2016
SuperSafeIan, you should look up irony in the dictionary ( a book with word definitions). It's nice that you are so brave and transparent. While you are chewing on that, would like to take the time to thank you for setting the bar so low in all that you are and do. It really makes all of us look and feel so much better about ourselves.
28
Chiyram said on September 13th, 2016
Nobody cares about your anon flaming on an online guidebook.
29
climb2core said on September 13th, 2016
Ha, not me... but you can suck my super safe dick.