The Syndicate (OPEN project)

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Strongyloides


78.
+2
2 votes

Gene Wilder 5.12d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Adam Taylor in 2012
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Powerful moves between pockets followed by technical face. Equipped by Dustin Stephens.
Moves: Pockets and technical face
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Private
Steepness:
pockets (1) bouldery (1) vertical (1) technical (1) beautiful (1) crimpy (1) classic (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.89 stars (18 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13a (21 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Nov 19th, 2018

Submitted by: Lil Josh
Date: Apr 20th, 2014

Submitted by: Lil Josh
Date: Apr 20th, 2014

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Jan 10th, 2014

Submitted by: ray
Date: Jul 14th, 2012

Submitted by: dustonian
Date: May 22nd, 2012

Comments

1
dustonian said on February 1st, 2012
so not 5.12.... :(
2
dustonian said on March 19th, 2012
took down the red tag so if you're psyched on some slightly overhanging bouldering with very long moves, give it a go. please leave the second draw, I'll get it soon. should be an amazing line with just enough holds. gets wet after heavy rain.
3
dustonian said on April 30th, 2012
Props to Adam "He-Man" Taylor for moving bolts 1 & 2 and sending this thing yesterday... truly a beautiful line with superb technical movement throughout. Sucks being too weak for the bottom crux!
4
climb2core said on May 22nd, 2012
Saw that Duttle was on this on really liked it. Also thought it was more like 13d with a V10 on it, but did remark it was wet when he was on it.
5
dustonian said on May 22nd, 2012
Brad Dallefield suggested 12d, he is fukkin' BEAST! Of course, being 8' tall would certainly help on the crux of this one...
6
kafish2 said on July 30th, 2012
Amazing route, with a couple of cool cruxes. One or two reachy moves will make this thing quite a bit harder for the short folks but still doable.
7
dustonian said on July 30th, 2012
'SIKED' this thing is gettin some action! When I first rapped it, I was blown away by the unique pockets and shapes the rock had to offer...
8
Travlinman said on April 4th, 2013
incredible line with a couple sequential boulder problems. Will continue to clean up as it sees more traffic. If you like techy, spicy, and/or rock climbing, get on this bad mother of a gem. thanks Dustonian
9
Lil Josh said on May 2nd, 2014
Awesome awesome climbing!! First attempt on this feels so spicy!
10
Chuckdott said on May 10th, 2014
Perfect rock climb. Better than Jesus Wept, but similar style. At 5'10" and +2 ape index I could barely make the reaches I wanted to, but they were all there. I imagine it's 13a if you're short, but merely speculating. My beta was REACHY and felt 12d.
11
2tall said on May 27th, 2014
This route was much easier for me being 6'6", and I'm also guessing that some hidden holds have been discovered in the last couple years as I couldn't imagine even a midget calling this 13d/V10... Either way, incredible line, 5 stars, a must do. I thought the crux after the first ledge was harder than the bottom crux, but I'm sure that has to do with my height.
12
neeko said on November 26th, 2014
At 5'6" with +0 ape index, it is probably one of my hardest climbs! A must-do!
13
coolbreeze said on March 21st, 2016
Really great, so many unlikely moves in one route!!
14
dustonian said on March 21st, 2016
dang Ralph you be crushin' son
15
coolbreeze said on March 21st, 2016
I don't know about that, blake threw me on babinski sign and I'm still convinced it's impossible if you don't koala climb the tree for most of it..
16
dustonian said on March 21st, 2016
sounds like you were trying pumpout2004's hardman beta way out left lol
17
Anonymous said on April 11th, 2016
One of the best in the gorge for sure. Somewhat terrifying going to the last bolt, would be nice to clip from the stance with your feet on the big fins before going to the micro nob hold. None the less one of the best.
18
Aksama said on November 11th, 2016
This thing is awesome!! Felt intimidated as a 5'7" short-man, but it's entirely accessible to us smaller folk. Incredibly fun climbing.
19
Anonymous said on January 26th, 2017
https://vimeo.com/77878077
20
Anonymous said on November 13th, 2018
Three new bolts were recently added to the route. Thanks to those who added the bolts. For reference, there is a new glue in below the original first bolt. And two new glue ins were added in the middle of the route, negating the need to make the traverse after the lower crux before clipping bolt 3. The jug that was before the large jug rest between bolt 4 and 5 fell off. The move is still possible, but it requires more effort than the previous jug to jug move.
21
Anonymous said on November 13th, 2018
Wow who the fuck raped this route? It's been completely fine since 2012 lol
22
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2018
LOL 17 5-star votes and now someone decides to add their own fucking bolts hahaha JFC idiot
23
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2018
Dustin Stevens just got retro bolted?!?!? What is the world coming to?
24
Anonymous said on November 15th, 2018
bolts added w FA’s consent or just retro bolted bc someone wanted to?
25
Anonymous said on November 15th, 2018
Three things- The bolts on this route were far from ideal. It was not some random dude who fixed them up. And yes, Adam was aware that it was eventually going to happen and was fine with it.
26
Willy said on November 15th, 2018
Original placements were far from ideal. I’d nearly shit my pants every time I did the low traverse but it kind of added character to the route. A bolt or two could have been moved but it didn’t need three new bolts added imo
27
climb2core said on November 15th, 2018
Random dude who fixed them also happened to bolt arguably the best/most famous lines in the Red. Instead of anon arm chair quaterbacking on a route that you have most likely never climbed about bolts you have never placed, perhaps you can buy Kenny a beer and say thanks.
28
Anonymous said on November 15th, 2018
I believe it’s 2 new bolts plus one moved bolt.
29
Anonymous said on November 15th, 2018
Porter added bolts to it?
30
J-Ru said on November 19th, 2018
Not sure why Kenny's comment is not showing here, but here it is: allah's Comment on on Gene Wilder posted on November 15th, 2018 If any of you have any concerns about this come talk to me. After personally watching two people hurt their ankles ( one bad sprain, the other ended up being fractured). Then I heard about a good friend of mine falling out of control at the end of the run out section and was knocked out. So yea, this route is now a true 5 star line. https://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide/?type=spy&id=224
31
Anonymous said on November 19th, 2018
Ah, the Muir Valley solution... unfortunately overbolting does not cure bad belaying
32
Anonymous said on November 19th, 2018
I saw the new bolts yesterday. Looks great. And not “overbolted” either. Long overdue IMO. Thanks Kenny.
33
allah said on November 22nd, 2018
Yea, not sure why my comment isn’t showing up. I stand by the decision. Now it’s a true RRG 5stars
34
Anonymous said on November 22nd, 2018
17 out of 18 people already thought that before you took matters into your own arrogant hands
35
Anonymous said on November 22nd, 2018
5 star was for the climbing, not bolting dumbass. Ian
36
craig.smith1 said on November 22nd, 2018
If Kenny hadn't rebolted this, I, or several other people I climb with were in line to do it. No offense to Dustin, it's a great line but needed tweaking. Thanks for the work Kenny. I'm psyched to have done the original version and will be psyched to check out the new one.
37
Anonymous said on November 23rd, 2018
craig bringing it full circle back to sorta subtle spray. way to keep the group focused
38
craig.smith1 said on November 23rd, 2018
Not so much spray as there were a few old schoolers looking at a rebolt so someone besides Kenny could have easily be derided. I included the spray to make it clear my inability wasn't the impetus. Not lots of spray left in me.
39
Anonymous said on November 24th, 2018
again, nothing about this line needed rebolting. It had a hair of a run out, but mental beyond anything else. Kenny has gone soft as his stomach
40
Anonymous said on November 24th, 2018
I didn't know ankle fractures were just mental and all in our head. Good medical knowledge from Anon.
41
Anonymous said on November 24th, 2018
Ankle fractures from the bolting!?! Hahaha how about learn how to fucking belay lol... this route was already more than well protected before it got sanitized and all its character scrubbed clean. Blaming the bolts is idiotic.
42
Anonymous said on November 24th, 2018
i'd like to ask how one learns to belay? could you share with the rest of us how one goes about preventing ankle injuries from falls? really, i think this is important, and only want to encourage the proliferation of understanding. thank you.
43
Anonymous said on November 24th, 2018
What yer gonna wanna do is head to the local climbing gym. They have a belay tag that will be given to you upon the completion of the course. That tag should then be displayed at the crag at all times. Expect random inspections. We are our there and we are watching.
44
Anonymous said on November 25th, 2018
haha, you are the man. are there any other objective hazards in rock climbing that you think are addressed by climbing gyms?
45
allah said on November 25th, 2018
Anon, aka Dustin, has had his ego hurt. He is the only one on here insulting me. I figured he would be an adult and keep his name attached to his insults but I can see that’s not the case. Keep it up buddy, I’ve been having a good laugh. Maybe with the new bolts you’d have a better shot of sending this amazing rock climb!
46
dustonian said on November 25th, 2018
Wow. Anon comments are not from me, thanks for the insults though Kenny, apology due... about as classless as moving and bolts without asking around a bit first. In any case the part that got sanitized was bolted by Adam so whatever I guess. Whole thing is pretty tacky though at this point haha.
47
Anonymous said on November 25th, 2018
Haha indeed. It's not like this route is the Bachar-Yerian. Just a reminder- GW is a rap bolted sport climb; and always has been. And it had an accidental and contrived runout. I suspect that back in 2012, if Adam had moved/drilled 3 bolts instead of 2, nobody would have cared at all.
48
halg said on November 28th, 2018
If you can't hang w the big dawgs, sit w the puppies on the porch..or re-bolt.
49
Anonymous said on November 28th, 2018
poop!