Beta-vul Pipeline

This route is located in the Southern Region at Bob Marley Crag

El Encuentro


28.
+1
1 votes

Eyeball Chaw 5.12a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Brendan Leader in 2012
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Just when you think there's no more room for another route... Begin right of Bettavul Pipeline and jug out and up to the headwall where a difficult move awaits.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.92 stars (50 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (38 votes)

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Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Apr 8th, 2015

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: May 31st, 2012

Comments

1
neeko said on March 10th, 2012
jugs, good rest, and some balance to reach the anchors. As good as Beta-vul pipeline
2
neverstopmoving said on May 14th, 2012
More enjoyable movement than Beta-vul.
3
pawilkes said on May 17th, 2012
huge holds to some technical crimpyness. it is possible get a no hands heal-toe/toe bat hang right before the crux. probably more effort than it is worth (the heal-toe/toe with hands is great for a shake out). the upper section feels a touch run out but really good.
4
zdordai said on June 2nd, 2012
better than bettavul in my opinion. slightly harder moves on the headwall to a slightly better rest to a harder headwall crux. holds need a good brushing and cleaning on the upper headwall, but the rock is amazing.
5
horst said on June 10th, 2012
Crimpy crux at the top is harder than the Beta-vul crux. The top is also a bit dirty...so not as good as Beta-Vul. But a good addition none the less.
6
der uber said on August 12th, 2012
Crazy headwall!
7
kafish2 said on August 12th, 2012
Things feel exciting pulling out of the steep and onto the face. Quite good!
8
climb2core said on September 3rd, 2012
Stellar addition to the crag. Pulling the headwall has a completely different character from the rest of the crag and making it a unique and fun line. Agree a little harder than Betavul, and a little better IMO.
9
dustonian said on January 20th, 2013
Quality route!
10
brayackmedia said on November 25th, 2013
This route is AWESOME !!!!!
11
Baatzy said on November 16th, 2014
Awesome climb, has a few bigger moves and a commiting crux at the end compared to Betavul, creating a cruxier, spicier climb.
12
Anonymous said on September 23rd, 2015
There's a steel pd on the first bolt. It would be better off as a cleaning biner on one of the other routes if anyone is interested in a little community service... Thx Ian