The Andy Man Can

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Veruca Salt


65.
+0
0 votes

Scarlet Scorchdropper 5.11c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Symon Ardila, Dustin Stephens in 2012
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begin on the same ledge as Andy Man Can and left of Veruca Salt. Balancey and technical face climbing with some exciting layback moves. May feel pretty stiff for the grade.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Private
Steepness:
stout (1) technical (1) dihedral (1) crimpy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.32 stars (25 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11d (39 votes)

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Comments

1
dustonian said on March 7th, 2012
Thanks to Vento Climbing and Pavel Dobrinskiy for donating the awesome hangers! http://www.vento.ru/
2
dustonian said on March 12th, 2012
Recommend tricking a brah into hanging a double draw on the 4th bolt if you're not solid on 5.11
3
Brentucky said on March 12th, 2012
I recommend tricking a brah into hanging up a top-rope for you even if you are solid on 5.11. At 5.11c this one is in the running for biggest sandbag of the year, but I've yet to climb Kipp's "Stirring the Grits" which is reportedly laughable to be called that same grade.
4
dustonian said on March 12th, 2012
now that's not fair, Brenty... 11c is supposed to be a little sandbagged. And I will never measure up to Kipp. Speaking of, is there still a pizza bounty offered for the first onsight of STG?
5
Brentucky said on March 12th, 2012
By the way, it is a good route similar to "Dave the Dude" with a cool flake feature. Glad you bolted it, Dustonian. I was in need of another ass-kicking, scary, 5.11 project.
6
pigsteak said on March 13th, 2012
yes pizza to the first onsite of stirring the grits sans tick marks.
7
symardila said on March 27th, 2012
where is this "Stirring the Grits"
8
dustonian said on March 27th, 2012
a new secret spot called "pigsteak's boudoir"...
9
Saxman said on May 11th, 2012
Terrible bolt spacing.
10
pumpout2004 said on June 4th, 2012
Dustin, your sandbagging is getting annoying! At least 12a. But also AWESOME.
11
Cromper said on June 8th, 2012
Tech city on this guy. Amazing movement!
12
Anonymous said on June 8th, 2012
If yer gonna try to sandbag a route, yer gonna have people vote a number grade harder.
13
dustonian said on June 8th, 2012
any sandbagging unintentional--this thing really does feel like yosemite 11c, but with bolts. speaking of, moved the 4th down a bit today so it can be clipped with less commitment required... maybe it was the epinephrine saying it was 5.12
14
pumpout2004 said on June 8th, 2012
This sandbag isn't too bad. I think I was just annoyed with the chocolate factory last weekend. I was trying to harvest a shit ton of points to pass Andrew (p.s. success) and I kept having to try really hard to do all these 11s. I want gimme points Dustin. GIMME POINTS!!!
15
dustonian said on June 8th, 2012
HAHA now that shit is funny... "point harvesting" to pass Andrew!!
16
Yasmeen said on June 8th, 2012
I just realized I'm up next in your lineup, pumpout... Dustin, more sandbags, please.
17
pumpout2004 said on June 8th, 2012
*evil grin*, and Dustin is right after that.
18
dustonian said on June 8th, 2012
As a matter of fact, I bolted a new "10d" out there yesterday, just waiting for a handsome suitor like yourself Dave... might want to take a brush! ;)
19
dustonian said on June 9th, 2012
And you need bigger challenges that "harvesting" more points than me, Dave... at the rate you're climbing all the choss around here you should set your sights on Ray and Blake!!
20
Brentucky said on June 11th, 2012
Pumpout, I have also tried that point-harvesting thing at Choco Factory. My biggest problem is I still have to warm up on the 5.10's so by the time I get to Dusty and Kipp's 11's I can just barely get to the top. I also recommend hopping on "The Juice" next time you are out that way for some more easy points. ;-)
21
Andrew said on June 11th, 2012
You do know that pump out is on the FA of the juice. He flashed it.
22
pumpout2004 said on June 11th, 2012
*even more evil grin*
23
der uber said on July 30th, 2012
Highly recommended
24
kafish2 said on July 31st, 2012
Would be 5 stars if the rock were a little more solid and less sandy for the first bolt or two.
25
dustonian said on July 31st, 2012
11b... nice rating suggestion, Kyle... that was my original suggestion too, and I have since been reviled for "sandbagging" at 11c!
26
kafish2 said on July 31st, 2012
I have to admit I was a bit intimidated by the route because it is vert/crack/techy. All things I am bad at. However, almost every move puts the climber in a decent stance where chalking up and looking at the next move is possible. I say almost because there is one severe move that I think defines the difficulty of this route but mostly this route was mentally taxing.
27
dustonian said on July 31st, 2012
Exactly! And that one move is maybe V2 tops...
28
pumpout2004 said on July 31st, 2012
V12 tops
29
dustonian said on July 31st, 2012
it's only V12 if you put your left foot on anything except the tiny sloping dish-smear that's really hard to see
30
Brentucky said on July 31st, 2012
I wish you people would stop downgrading my sick proj. Dustonian, you are still the weakest-sauce climber to have sent this thing to date, but don't worry, I plan to knock it out and take your spot next time I'm out that way. I'm not wasting time looking for no damn foot-smear either!
31
dustonian said on July 31st, 2012
This route really separates the men from the ballerinas (ie. people who can do it). It's also significantly less stimulating now since I lowered the 4th bolt.
32
krampus said on September 10th, 2012
Fantastic rout, I think some of the sand down low may have been brushed out, I thought the rock was quality all the way up. Maybe it was the lowered 4th bolt but I also thought the grade was right on. Possibly even soft. All the holds were there, you just had to do it.
33
dustonian said on September 11th, 2012
Ya hear that, 'tucky?? Joel said you might be a little soft!
34
Brentucky said on September 13th, 2012
Yep, I hear it, I have some of that sand I still need to brush out. I'm 0 for 3 on soft 11c.
35
dustonian said on September 13th, 2012
Might need a vacuum cleaner with a modified speculum adapter to get out all the sand up in there! ;)
36
climb2core said on September 13th, 2012
Never before, have comments so enticed me to want to try a line ;)
37
climb2core said on September 19th, 2012
I did a little more research on this route. Having never climbed it, I can still comfortably say it is sandbagged, and badly at that. Blake took 3 goes to send this. The last time it took him 3 goes on an 11c was, never. A few 12a's took 3 goes, but so did a few 13's. Most of his 3 go climbs were 12b-d. So let's conservatively call this 12b and stop this silly talk of 11c for this route :)
38
SCIN said on September 19th, 2012
Maybe Blake was having a bad day from too much blow and alcohol from the previous night?
39
dustonian said on September 19th, 2012
he could have been tired from all the hookers too
40
dustonian said on September 20th, 2012
"Happy Feet" took him 4 tries! ;)
41
climb2core said on September 20th, 2012
And Tucky onsited it... go figure.
42
Brentucky said on August 6th, 2013
C'mon boys and girls, step up to this pretty line! I want to see someone who hasn't yet sent a 5.12b get on this spray list. Now go try you luck at your sweet new, 5.11 summer proj!
43
Willy said on August 10th, 2013
Done. Dreams do come true Tucky
44
Brentucky said on August 12th, 2013
hmmm, you did get on the spray list, but not quite the way i expected to see it. you can still "send" this thing before you send a 5.12b though. don't blow the opportunity dude b/c now you know it goes! oh yeah, and nice work anyway! ;-)
45
Anonymous said on August 12th, 2013
there is no doubt in my mind I have never ever seen one person have such a man crush on a route as brent does for this rig....un-freakin-believable
46
Anonymous said on August 12th, 2013
last comment by The Steak....
47
dustonian said on August 12th, 2013
Dunno, I've seen him get all goo-goo-eyed over a few of yours at the Bumbliothek too, such as East of Eden and the Fury...
48
Anonymous said on August 12th, 2013
egads, that is not good company to keep....
49
dustonian said on August 12th, 2013
and you should hear him rave on about butane junky...
50
Willy said on August 12th, 2013
Wait I was supposed to climb it before I added myself to the spray list?
51
Anonymous said on August 12th, 2013
Tina Top-rope send for you Willy? Go back and lead it in style to truly appease 'Tucky.
52
Brentucky said on August 12th, 2013
What can I say, I'm a sucker for stout 11's, and luckily that is about all you guys bolt because you can't climb any harder... and yes, Butane is one of the best and should be downgraded to 5.11 to make it even better. ;-)
53
dustonian said on August 12th, 2013
gotta love the bimodal distribution on the difficulty voting... says a lot about the RRG ;)
54
coolbreeze said on November 26th, 2013
kicked my ass and made me cry
55
craig.smith1 said on September 12th, 2014
12.a/b seems about right for this. Hard onsight. Really good route though. I would do it again. I thought it was maybe a touch easier than Swahili Slang.
56
rich said on November 29th, 2015
Not so sure about the grade, but also haven't sent. Got on it cause it looked cool and the grade was within what I thought I could onsight. I got shut down. Even after hanging, it took some figuring out to do the moves. Props to the developers for bolting this awesome line.
57
DrRockso said on September 11th, 2016
Super fun! Pretty sandbaghe'd at 5.11c.
58
Willy said on November 1st, 2016
Not nearly the sandbag I was hoping for
59
tazunemono said on September 5th, 2017
Really sweet route! Felt harder than 11c, and although I haven't sent that many 12's it could be 11d. The crux isn't too bad with the right beta and you get a nice reward for your effort. After that it's just hanging on till the chains.