Delayed Gratification

This route is located in the Southern Region at Rival Wall

Epic Indicator


3.
+0
0 votes

McCoy 5.10c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jeff Neal, Matt Johns in 2012
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the first bolted route at the head of the trail and the third from the right. Begin with an off balance and reachy start to reach some blocks which require a bit of trickery to move past. Continue on less brain-demanding moves to the anchors.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.74 stars (34 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (35 votes)

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Comments

1
Jeff said on April 2nd, 2012
Did a lot of cleaning on this. The start ended up going a little different than anticipated. You might want to brush the bottom, left of the crack, a bit more before you commit.
2
jenbongo said on April 5th, 2012
I thought the start was more than a .10, and I couldn't get past the roof, so I'm calling it .11d. I can usually get all the moves on .11c or less. My taller friend didn't have as much trouble at the roof, but I couldn't figure out another way of doing it. The top half (after cheating past the roof) is similar to the other routes.
3
Jeff said on April 6th, 2012
There's some super secret beta for that block move if that's what you're referring to jen ;-) It actually makes that move pretty easy and I can't say that I've ever done a similar move on any other route. The start is kinda hard. Can the powers that be change the bolt count to 9? I added one to cut some spice.
4
pigsteak said on April 7th, 2012
now whose a sandbagger?????
5
Jeff said on April 7th, 2012
That's crazy talk.
6
pigsteak said on May 28th, 2012
at the big block, I did a knee bar and this was virtually a no hands move to gain the ledge..quite a bit of mushy soft rock in the middle takes away a star. but I have bolted my share of soft rock so i say thanks and kudos to numbnut neal for adding this to the wall.
7
Wolf said on May 28th, 2012
I used a kneebar there too, but it was still a hard lockoff and a big reach. The start also seemed pretty desperate. Definitely harder than Delayed Gratification or Hatfield. Should become more fun as it gets more traffic.
8
dnietosi said on June 1st, 2012
Very dirty. I will get fun if it gets cleaned up
9
Jeff said on June 2nd, 2012
Ah, come on! Very dirty is what it was before I did some cleaning :-) The other two were dirty and the comments reflect that. They've cleaned up well, hopefully this one will too. Well, that ledge may never... Still fun climbing IMO!
10
lena_chita said on June 4th, 2012
The start was definitely burly and height-dependent, more like 5.11a if you are short. I thought the couple moves to get past the block were the best moves on the route, but that is not saying much. Hopefully the route will clean up some, but I am putting it on the list of routes I won't get on again.
11
Cromper said on July 26th, 2012
Good route Jeff! Definitely worth climbing. Cleared all the widow makers off the first ledge today. Should be just as good as its neighbors soon.
12
dfspau2 said on August 3rd, 2012
If you like spiders, choss, and a mossy finish this route is for you. Could clean up with ALOT of traffic which it does not deserve.
13
Jeff said on August 3rd, 2012
Haha. Sounds like another hater got spanked.
14
EricDorsey said on August 3rd, 2012
I liked it. Top was a little mossy but will clean up like the others. I got spanked at the roof too, not sure how to get through that section...
15
Jeff said on August 28th, 2012
After the awkward mantle over the block there is a jug on the face above the roof that allows you to stand up and find the path.
16
pigsteak said on August 28th, 2012
thanks for ruining my onsight numbnuts!
17
Jeff said on August 29th, 2012
You told me you already onsighted Gramps.
18
pigsteak said on August 29th, 2012
oh yeah...well, next time I onsight it I meant.
19
Rollo said on April 21st, 2013
Awkward mantle is right! You may find some baby boulders with brown hair up on that ledge in nine months because I positively humped that block. Bottom is fun, negotiating the block is easy with the right beta. The top is not great but scary right now until it cleans up...or IF it cleans up. 3 star 10c.
20
bcircell said on April 22nd, 2013
Dirty. Brittle. 1 redeeming move.
21
anticlmber said on May 28th, 2013
I liked it. Tough to get started, dirty, ready to fall apart at times but makes up for it in the end. Just like a good woman. Thumbs up
22
420troll said on July 11th, 2013
complete garbage...whoever bolted it needs to think about what they are doing...then not do it.
23
Anonymous said on July 11th, 2013
Hahahaha Looks like most people would disagree.
24
SpikySkaKid said on April 21st, 2014
The opening moves were definitely off-balance but interesting. I went left at the block and did a high foot/mantle move to grab the crack. Very fun climb.
25
veela-valoom said on June 11th, 2015
I'm not sure what is with the start of this one. Not like any 10c I've ever been on. Not sure I understand how to do it (as a short girl) even after climbing the route. Be wary if you take advantage of the sit down ledge slightly to the right of the route. There are some large disconnected rocks that you may tug on from below and realize once you're up there it's just loose rocks. I accidentally touched something on the roof and sent a rock flying towards my belayer. Lots of breakage in that area.
26
kenellis said on July 6th, 2015
The big block crux in the middle didn't seem harder than 10c once you worked it out, but damn that start felt hard as hell in jungle conditions.
27
lagricola said on June 20th, 2016
The start and blocky move were pretty clean and fun, but the top is still real brittle. A little birdie told me a whip from blowing a foot at the anchor is big, but cleaner than a lot of the route...
28
Anonymous said on August 20th, 2018
Would adding another bolt to the block's face take away from the action? It feels like it could be a dangerous move if you went for the ledge and missed. The bottom slabs out a bit where you'd end up with a light belayer. I'm also open to hearing that fall is safe and there's no need.