The Departure

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Dark Side

Admiral Ackbar


3.
+1
1 votes

Dagobah 5.12a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Scott Curran, Dustin Stephens in 2012
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Just right of The Departure. Begin with four bolts of steep underclings and sloping pinches that lead to a ledge so big you’ll think you climbed back to the ground. From the ledge choose your path, which includes either five bolts of crusty jugs or five bolts of forced but more enjoyable steep climbing
Moves: Slopey, Jugs
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
arete (1) fun (1) pumpy (1) slopey (1) exposed (1) beautiful (1) long (1) steep (1) juggy (1) bouldery (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.2 stars (15 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (11 votes)

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Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Aug 14th, 2012

Comments

1
dustonian said on April 16th, 2012
pretty wild route, one of the steeper and longer 11's around... definitely feeling more on the 11d side of things today. the anchor is currently one bolt backed up to trees above; I'll be back to put in the second bolt asap. whoever left a bail biner on the 5th bolt--send a PM, I have your booty.
2
dustonian said on April 20th, 2012
ready to ride!
3
pumpout2004 said on April 30th, 2012
Unless I missed something...HARD AS HELL! Quite good though.
4
Yasmeen said on April 30th, 2012
Such a cool route. This weekend, Ken proved that if you happen to top out the arete instead of climbing toward the permadraw, you can always rodeo clip it. Nice work, Dad.
5
dustonian said on April 30th, 2012
Yikes!!! Glad I trundled that death(star)block over there ;)
6
JR said on May 21st, 2012
First 2 or 3 bolts are crazy cool. Then it turns into one of those "why are the bolts over there?" kinda routes.
7
ray said on August 26th, 2012
Like water I tend to flow through the path of least resistance which is the 5.8 crusty jug haul to the right of all the bolts. The bottom was cool though.
8
dustonian said on August 28th, 2012
Nothing's stopping you from putting up your own route on tricams or whatever on the sandy, mossy choss over there... this route just happens to go up the nice 10+/11- pockets on the clean rock left of all that crap.
9
SCIN said on August 28th, 2012
I didn't need tri-cams cuz there were bolts to my left. :)
10
dustonian said on August 28th, 2012
Wow, you must have some crazy Inspector Gadget arms or something! That's it, I'm going out and forcing the line even further left ;) In my defense there was a cluster of giant chossy deathblocks over there to the right that I trundled after bolting and sending this thing. Climbing over there wasn't even a consideration as long as those monsters were lurking around!
11
SCIN said on August 28th, 2012
Just live with it man. It's okay, Pigsteak fucks up about 50% of the time. You're only at about 5. And no my ape index is nowhere near Gadget's. Personally i think you should just set the anchors at the first ledge and have a fun little short route a la Little Teapot.
12
dustonian said on August 28th, 2012
FIVE!? ;) I actually really like the upper part and know some other folks that do too. I just never imagined climbing out right originally since it was barricaded by deathblocks and had to run the route leftwards to protect the rope. Since the crux is low, maybe I'll just add another bolt for a sub-anchor at that ledge for those less interested in the chossaneering goodness above.
13
pigsteak said on August 28th, 2012
50%??????? you are waaay too generous.
14
sarah said on May 1st, 2015
Really fun slopey boulder problem at the start! Reminds me of the start of rocket dog