It's a Trap!

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Dark Side

Stormtrooper


6.
+1
1 votes

Wookie Love Nest 5.12c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Scott Curran, Dustin Stephens in 2012
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Who says you can't have your slab and steep rock too? Take on the demanding slab just left of the corner surpassing a tough move to pull the ocean wave at the third bolt. Put more time in on the slab then shift gears to enjoy the more familiar kick-backed steepness to the chains.
Moves: Technical
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
crimpy (1) shady (1) vertical (1) technical (1) juggy (1) bouldery (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

5 stars (5 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12c (4 votes)

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Comments

1
Cromper said on May 2nd, 2012
This route is gonna be really good!
2
dustonian said on May 2nd, 2012
indeed... but it will be called "Wookie Love Nest" instead!
3
dustonian said on June 11th, 2012
Proud lead on this one Scott, helps to be a crimp specialist on the upper crux!
4
Spikeddem said on June 11th, 2012
Project draws weren't even up a week were they? Nice work Scottie Boy.
5
dustonian said on August 15th, 2012
This is a great line for those who enjoy New River-style techfests. There is even some standard RRG-style action at the finish.
6
Cromper said on February 5th, 2013
HOpefully this thing sees another ascent now that the new guide is out. Dustin found a gem here, killer route!
7
Cromper said on February 5th, 2013
Also I'll be back sometime in the summer to build a nice belay ledge for this and storm trooper.
8
pigsteak said on October 24th, 2013
is the belay ledge in?
9
dustonian said on October 24th, 2013
lol... he did take out the horrifying widowmaker hanging overhead, that was good enough for me to let him have this route!
10
dustonian said on September 29th, 2014
Prehang the third draw at the 1st crux if possible and straddle the rope at the 2nd to enhance the odds of success
11
Willy said on April 24th, 2015
Best route ever