Stormtrooper

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Dark Side

Redneck Jedi


8.
+2
2 votes

Evil Emperor 5.13a (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Brad Dallefeld, Dustin Stephens in 2012
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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25 feet left of Redneck Jedi is slightly overhanging golden face marked by a hueco 25 feet up. Excellent technical face climbing that gets harder the higher you get.
Moves: Technical
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
crimpy (1) beautiful (1) technical (1) shady (1) long (1) classic (1) vertical (1) stout (1) fun (1)
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5 stars (5 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13a (2 votes)

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Comments

1
Anonymous said on June 15th, 2012
is this going to open up soon, it hurts to walk past?
2
pigsteak said on June 15th, 2012
offer to buy it from the equipper...time and bolts should be good for about $150 I'd guess.
3
climb2core said on June 15th, 2012
That's interesting idea Pig, just how much is it worth to have your very own route? You could auction them off on ebay ;)
4
@@@ said on June 15th, 2012
Just curious if someone was about to send it or if it was going to be a five year project. How about a trade of routes instead?
5
Anonymous said on June 16th, 2012
i love the righteous bolter's position of claiming rock bought by a coalition-how about don't leave your precious hardware behind if you don't want other people to use it?
6
Andrew said on June 16th, 2012
The line has been there since the day you were born. You had plenty of time to bolt it first. Sorry... time to wait.
7
Anonymous said on June 16th, 2012
wrong, try again
8
pigsteak said on June 16th, 2012
I do get a kick out of non-equippers who moan once the bolts go in....suddenly that new line becomes the most valuable piece of real estate in the area....btw anonymous, i have no idea what route you are talking about, but was trying to offer up a friendly suggestion if it was 'hard" to continually walk past it. sorry if 'that route" was the last one you hadn't ticked in the gorge. @@@ has a great idea...you got a route to trade anon?
9
Anonymous said on June 16th, 2012
your hardware and time barely earn you the privilege to bolt rock bought by the coalition, much less negotiating positions.
10
climb2core said on June 16th, 2012
Anon, you are pretty fucking unappreciative and a hypocrite to boot if you ever climb on a route equipped by someone else. It is a pretty standard ethic for respecting the equipped with the vision, time, and money to put the line up. And yes, it is on a first come first serve basis. Most developers are pretty reasonable and know when they are in over their head and will open it up. Their are great lines still to be had in the PMRP for those with vision. Banksy looks stellar! Why don't you put on your big boy pants and share who you are...
11
Anonymous said on June 16th, 2012
vision my ass
12
@@@ said on June 16th, 2012
the first anonymous comment was me, not the next 4, i'm not that much of a dbag
13
@@@ said on June 16th, 2012
sounds like you should be a member of the crew anon
14
Willy said on September 27th, 2012
Who put this one up?
15
Cromper said on September 27th, 2012
Some spray lord put it up.
16
Anonymous said on September 27th, 2012
well that narrows it down...
17
dustonian said on September 27th, 2012
I think it was Cromper's mom, she so fat she crushes everything she touches
18
whoneedsfeet said on September 27th, 2012
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_c-oUEtVR_7I/TOvvBhrJEGI/AAAAAAAAAcw/f8wpAHFND5M/s400/funny%2Bskinny%2Bman%2Bfat%2Bwoman%2Bphotos%2B7.jpg
19
dustonian said on December 3rd, 2012
a longer draw or extended sling is nice for the 4th bolt
20
Anonymous said on September 30th, 2013
Fantastic line! Thanks Dustin
21
dustonian said on September 30th, 2013
Glad you enjoyed! Sendage? Curious to hear if anyone else has done it. Bummer that rain washes off chalk at the crux, but that's also kind of cool in a way I guess, each person gets to discover those crazy ass moves for themselves.
22
dustonian said on October 2nd, 2013
Nice work Jason on the second ascent!
23
chosen1 said on October 2nd, 2013
Thanks! I looked at that wall for years wondering if there was a line there
24
coolbreeze said on May 27th, 2014
WOW. Hard. Awesome. This is a lot like soul ram, but harder. Very very good!!
25
JR said on April 29th, 2015
The slab at the top is stopper. Very enjoyable crunchy crimping and jugs to get there. Difficult to hang draws.
26
kurktj said on October 5th, 2015
Great climbing the whole way, best sport climb at The Dork Side. I'd put extended draws on bolts 4 and 5, and skip bolt 8. The top went into shade at about 12:30-1 yesterday.
27
red_river_climber said on February 28th, 2018
So, so, so good. The first 70 feet aren't super hard but the movement is phenomenal. Bring out those steel fingers for the crux though. Don't think I've had this much fun on a route since the first time I tried OJ.
28
Anonymous said on March 25th, 2019
Wow. A technical masterpiece. Phenomenal line.
29
pumpout2004 said on March 25th, 2019
Forgot to login for my comment above.
30
Anonymous said on March 25th, 2019
We were all wondering who to accredit such an insightful comment to, thanks!