Crown of Thorns

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Bright Side

LOMM


11.
+0
0 votes

Medicine Man 5.13b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Enzo Oddo in 2012
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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The wicked line left of Crown of Thorns which doesn't provide any sit-down rest in the gigantic hueco relief like the previous two do. Equipped by Kipp Trummel.
Moves: Crimps
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3 stars (5 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13b (5 votes)

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Comments

1
pigsteak said on April 23rd, 2012
cool photos dustin. thanks for turning me on to bolting this line. too bad it took a better climber than eye to put it to bed...it looks amazing.
2
dustonian said on April 23rd, 2012
after rapping it I was convinced it was going to be mid-12... oh well ;)
3
Climbingrocks said on November 5th, 2012
I don't like to comment on grades, but I think Mr. Oddo might have been wrong on this one. 13b at least. Couldn't even pull the move. Maybe I just sucked yesterday. Definitely a one move wonder.
4
dustonian said on November 5th, 2012
I have heard from a couple others that an upgrade may be an order. Let's bring in a visiting 15c climber to get a nice solid consensus.
5
dustonian said on November 5th, 2012
PS maybe your daisy chain was holding you back
6
Brentucky said on November 5th, 2012
ha, I remember when pigsteak drug me out to this thing with the promise of a good "low 12" that he wanted us to work on. He told me I just needed to try harder, and just grab "that" hold. heh, fun times with the pig!
7
pigsteak said on November 5th, 2012
it is just 12 except for the crux:)
8
dustonian said on November 6th, 2012
apparently a good number of people were shut down by that crux yesterday...
9
kafish2 said on March 16th, 2014
Crux is not as bad as these comments make this seem. This route is also very short lived, the crux bolt is disproportionate to the rest of the route ( a boulderer's dream). 3 bolts of not great rock leads to a cool crux, followed by a but more choss, then a spectacular last couple of bolts. One note is that you should use a very short or very long draw after the crux. there is a ledge that hits the bottom gates of most of my quickdraws and tends to want to open them up.
10
dustonian said on March 17th, 2014
guhwerk Kyle! FNFA (first non-French ascent)??
11
Anonymous said on March 17th, 2014
parlez vous?
12
johnwesely said on April 18th, 2015
This route is like if Shiva and Golden Boy had a baby.