Admiral Ackbar

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Dark Side

Wookie Love Nest


5.
+1
1 votes

It's a Trap! 5.10c (Mixed) ****

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Scott Curran in 2012
Length: 80ft
Bolts/Gear: 1/ (report bad bolts/anchors)

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About 200 feet right from Dagobah and 150 feet left of where the approach trail forks left is a blocky section of wall which splits from slab to steep at midheight. This worthy trad line begins on the left side of the wall and takes on the steep crack system. Begin with the dihedral then launch into steep climbing with decent protection and a single bolt. There may be anchors before the steep climbing begins, which makes for a decent 5.8"
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
fingers (1) dihedral (1) juggy (1) adventerous (1) hands (1) long (1) steep (1) exposed (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.5 stars (6 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10c (5 votes)

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Submitted by: dustonian
Date: Jun 16th, 2012

Submitted by: dustonian
Date: Jun 16th, 2012

Submitted by: dustonian
Date: May 2nd, 2012

Comments

1
Cramsie said on April 23rd, 2012
Excellent name.
2
Cromper said on May 2nd, 2012
T-wall at the Red! This climb is super good! Really cleaning up well.
3
whoneedsfeet said on May 9th, 2012
This is going to be a good route, when Dustin and Scott finish bolting it.
4
dustonian said on June 16th, 2012
thanks to Scott Curran for the purdy pictures
5
monty4355 said on June 17th, 2012
Sweet route! Great layback to even greater face climb to the anchors!
6
dustonian said on July 30th, 2012
A BD #3 or 4 is useful in the opening horizontals above the crack, save a 0.5 for upper run to the anchor
7
dustonian said on October 7th, 2014
The thornbush grew back up top :( Aggressive gardener wanted for small route improvement project.
8
Cromper said on October 7th, 2014
I'll be back, miss this climb
9
Anonymous said on October 7th, 2014
we'll get that anchor on the bottom part one of these years haha
10
njclimber said on October 18th, 2017
Awesome route. Not many gear routes like this in the red. There are no intermediate anchors and I think the route is better off without them. Would get 5 stars if someone does some gardening and scrubbing.