One Side Makes You Taller

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Through The Looking Glass


40.
+1
1 votes

Ballnuts and Brassies or Busted Ankles 5.12a R (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Dan Beck in 2012
Length: 70ft
Gear: Small (report bad anchors)

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Just around the corner from the previous route is a striking left angling fingercrack beginning midway up the wall. Climb moderate rock to reach an alcove where you will want to get the best protection you can. Pull out into the fingercrack and attempt to balance the desire to send with the desire to protect yourself. If you survive the crack, traverse right then continue up on face holds with decent protection.
Moves: Thin crack and face
Descent: Bolted anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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5.12a (1 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Jul 15th, 2012

Comments

1
Wolf said on May 19th, 2012
R-rated due to the quality/size/trickiness of the gear and the ramp lurking underneath. It would be an impressive onsight. If you want to do it onsight, don't read my next comment, because I'm going to post the gear beta.
2
Anonymous said on May 19th, 2012
You kinda already did that in the title...
3
Anonymous said on May 21st, 2012
good send but lame route name