This line begins on a flake feature right of Hip to the Jive. Carefully climb the feature (which may be reinforced) then scoot right into a hueco. Hide out for a bit then boulder out to reach the pumpy headwall.
There's a big, bad-sounding block on this route, but we couldn't pry it off with crowbars and it didn't flex when we yarded on it. I don't think it's going anywhere, but it sounds terrifying. We're going to to back and reinforce it, and add more chain to the anchors.
Big ups to brentucky who still sent this rig even after his feet slipped halfway up forcing him to cross under clip while swinging, yes literally swinging, from one arm. Then to top it off his foot broke just before the jugs going to the anchors. Impressive site to see for weaksauce tucky
Very nice and unique route, loved the flake section. That pitiful tree needs a haircut badly though, someone is going to get hurt up there. Donated a biner to that ghetto anchor, you owe me Wolf.
Freaking Cool.
Wasn't sure if I wanted to lead or not so took a tr burn and sent.
Good enough I guess, but I think to truly appreciate leaving the squirrel nest rest and clipping the next draw, leading is the way to get full value. Very fun and exciting!
I had a blast on this route. I kept waiting for the 12a climbing... and it just never materialized. If you are on the short side, I could see it being much harder. Felt much easier than the 11b to the left or the 11d to the right.
Stellar route for sure. If you are cleaning this one while lowering watch out for the swing around bolt 1-2, good chance of flying through some branches or landing in a big holly bush.
If you use the lay-down rest and look up, you can see light at the top under the massive partially detached flake/block. Kinda scary, but what a great route.
I onsighted this and didn't even feel cool afterward. I believe a downgrade ought to be in order along with some chains at the anchors. Great route though and nice work with the glue ins!!
As of today 11/10/14, I removed the mank aluminum from the anchors (razor sharp edges) and placed fresh aluminum up there. Will try and go back this week with a couple steel ovals to replace those with.
I cleaned this on toprope and thought most of the movement was super fun. Aside from just cutting feet and controlling the swing is there any good short girl beta (5 ft) for getting out of the hueco? Would love to puzzle out that move.
Sorry, I'll make sure to check with everyone about their views before posting anything. I forget that this is a fine upstanding community that prides itself on being all like minded. I'll refrain from ever having any sense of humor here. Back to the seriousness that is rock climbing.
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Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).
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