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Hip to the Jive

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

 Naked

30.
+3
3 votes

Snozzberries 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Kevin Quinn, Dan Beck in 2012
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This line begins on a flake feature right of Hip to the Jive. Carefully climb the feature (which may be reinforced) then scoot right into a hueco. Hide out for a bit then boulder out to reach the pumpy headwall.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Bolted anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.5 stars (86 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11d (108 votes)

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Submitted by: KQUINN
Date: Aug 3rd, 2012

Comments

31 comments {add your own comments}
1
Wolf said on May 19th, 2012
There's a big, bad-sounding block on this route, but we couldn't pry it off with crowbars and it didn't flex when we yarded on it. I don't think it's going anywhere, but it sounds terrifying. We're going to to back and reinforce it, and add more chain to the anchors.
2
krampus said on September 10th, 2012
Big ups to brentucky who still sent this rig even after his feet slipped halfway up forcing him to cross under clip while swinging, yes literally swinging, from one arm. Then to top it off his foot broke just before the jugs going to the anchors. Impressive site to see for weaksauce tucky
3
dustonian said on October 15th, 2012
Very nice and unique route, loved the flake section. That pitiful tree needs a haircut badly though, someone is going to get hurt up there. Donated a biner to that ghetto anchor, you owe me Wolf.
4
Jeff said on November 4th, 2012
Freaking Cool. Wasn't sure if I wanted to lead or not so took a tr burn and sent. Good enough I guess, but I think to truly appreciate leaving the squirrel nest rest and clipping the next draw, leading is the way to get full value. Very fun and exciting!
5
climb2core said on November 5th, 2012
Way to "send" Tina Toproper ;)
6
Jeff said on November 5th, 2012
I did feel 'dirty' afterwards.
7
chriss said on November 22nd, 2012
Really fun route with some unique movement. Compared to icebreaker and hookah feels somewhere in the mid 11 range,
8
ray said on March 16th, 2013
Tree is no longer threatening thanks to JR's tree riding skills. Killer line.
9
fpmadden said on April 13th, 2013
Awesome line following great features, bound to be a classic one day. Stellar route.
10
climb2core said on May 28th, 2013
I had a blast on this route. I kept waiting for the 12a climbing... and it just never materialized. If you are on the short side, I could see it being much harder. Felt much easier than the 11b to the left or the 11d to the right.
11
whoneedsfeet said on June 2nd, 2013
Stellar climb Kevin and Dan. Had a blast the entire way. Moved the quick link up a bolt to help with cleaning as well.
12
bcircell said on June 24th, 2013
Stellar route. Immediately draws the eye. The move out of the cave is committing for sure. I'd say 11c/d imho.
13
kafish2 said on November 4th, 2013
Stellar route for sure. If you are cleaning this one while lowering watch out for the swing around bolt 1-2, good chance of flying through some branches or landing in a big holly bush.
14
pkananen said on April 28th, 2014
If you use the lay-down rest and look up, you can see light at the top under the massive partially detached flake/block. Kinda scary, but what a great route.
15
Willy said on May 8th, 2014
I onsighted this and didn't even feel cool afterward. I believe a downgrade ought to be in order along with some chains at the anchors. Great route though and nice work with the glue ins!!
16
Ballsnauer said on November 11th, 2014
As of today 11/10/14, I removed the mank aluminum from the anchors (razor sharp edges) and placed fresh aluminum up there. Will try and go back this week with a couple steel ovals to replace those with.
17
veela-valoom said on June 17th, 2015
I cleaned this on toprope and thought most of the movement was super fun. Aside from just cutting feet and controlling the swing is there any good short girl beta (5 ft) for getting out of the hueco? Would love to puzzle out that move.
18
Anonymous said on June 17th, 2015
stiletto heels?
19
anticlmber said on June 17th, 2015
Kegel exercises. Pussy be yanking
20
taurusclimber said on June 29th, 2015
Well that was a dumb comment.
21
anticlmber said on June 30th, 2015
Sorry, I'll make sure to check with everyone about their views before posting anything. I forget that this is a fine upstanding community that prides itself on being all like minded. I'll refrain from ever having any sense of humor here. Back to the seriousness that is rock climbing.
22
Ti-Bum said on April 30th, 2016
Superb route! 11c at the most in my opinion. Only 1 hard move (I did it campus), with 2 consecutive kneebars before the chains to wash the pump!
23
Anonymous said on April 30th, 2016
You campused on a route? Your a fucking badass bro!!
24
Ti-Bum said on May 1st, 2016
Hahaha! Gullich style!
25
Chiyram said on May 18th, 2016
This is an amazing route! Completely unique movement.
26
Anonymous said on May 18th, 2016
bro again!
27
Cocoapuffs1000 said on August 14th, 2017
Great climb but I agree, not 12a. Easier even than Ro Shampo, and not much harder than Hip to the Jive
28
Anonymous said on August 15th, 2017
Does it really matter if it's 11d or 12a?
29
Chiyram said on August 15th, 2017
It doesn't matter as long as I don't lose my 12a points I got for it.
30
DarioVentura said on March 11th, 2018
First 12a! Pretty hard for the grade.
31
eduard said on November 13th, 2018
Similar in both difficulty and character to Wearing Out My Welcome.